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Routes in Chair Ladder

Flannel Avenue T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1949
Page Views: 44 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 19, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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P1 (90' 5.7+) starts up the chimney which is often damp: either easier but not well-protected by bridging at the outside; or more technical back-and-footing but with good wire runners a few feet in. Move right and continue steeply up to a niche. P2 (90' 5.6) moves right and makes an exposed traverse, then up a good slab to a big ledge. Finish right of a block by pulling up a steep wall.

P1 (the chimney) is hard for the given grade, UK HS 4b, but many people avoid this by coming in from the right.


Descend Ash Can Gully (near coastguard station), with abseil at bottom. Move east along wave-washed platform under Wolf Buttress to reach Bishop Buttress (low tide only!). Flannel Avenue starts up an obvious black chimney.


Standard rack.