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Routes in Chair Ladder

Flannel Avenue T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1948
Page Views: 40 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 19, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A steep line with great holds and good protection. P1 (90' 5.8) follows cracks for 60', then moves right (crux) and up to a good stance (can be split). P2 (80' 5.8-) continues up the steep, juggy crack, to arrive on a big ledge, then follows a crack in the back wall above the ledge to finish (can be split).

Location

From the coastguard station descend Ash Can Gully until an abseil seems sensible (or down climb carefully). The start is reached (at low tide - beware big waves) by moving west a few metres. South Face Direct takes a line of chunky cracks just left of the right hand side of this buttress.

Protection

Standard rack, cams up to Friend 3.5. Use long slings and double ropes to avoid rope-drag.

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