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Routes in West Fork

Eight Ball Tower - Rolling with the Eight Ball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Engagement T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into The Wild T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Into the Void T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Where The Mild Things Are T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Where the Wild Things Are T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 160 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ray Vought, Greg Anderson 9/91
Page Views: 410 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1 (5.9) - Climb up a dirty but easy chimney to a ledge. Continue up a harder section to the belay on a large ledge/alcove.

Walk around to the NE face (morning sun).

Pitch 2 (5.9) - Climb up to a ledge with a bush. Continue up the improbable but fun face, fingers to hands and a step right to a short OW. Belay on the ledge above. (This pitch may differ from the FA route, we weren't sure).

Pitch 3 (5.8) - Climb off the ledge through fun blocky terrain and one bolt. Sign the summit register!

Descent - Make one 160 ft. rappel back to your packs - shitty. An intermediate anchor would make this better and possible with one rope.

Location [Suggest Change]

Two miles up the West Fork trail on the left if you're headed upstream. Cross the creek and head up a steep slope to the base of the chimney.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A double set of cams from thin fingers to hands. One #4 Camelot or equivalent sized piece.

The rap anchor is original but good. We replaced the webbing 6/15.

Photos

I am glad you liked it. I was worried it might've gotten messed up by the recent fires. Sep 14, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I've had my eye on this tower for a while, never realized it was the 8 ball tower until I climbed it today! I enjoyed it quite a bit.
A single rack (with a #4!) and nuts would probably be just fine.
On P2 at the bush you can go left or right. I actually did both (had my partner lower me on TR) and thought the right was better and cleaner, but it still has some large blocks at the base. Both ways seemed like 5.9(+?)
P3 was a little spicy because you have to pull on some edges you'd rather not but the bolt is solid and well placed.
This can be descended with 1 rope in 3 raps. From the summit do a 25' rap to the large ledge. There is a 2 bolt anchor on the north end. do one more 80' rap to the platform between P1 and P2. Finally scramble down and rap off the pine tree just to the climber's right of the P1 chimney.

A good way to approach is after the 7th stream crossing immediately start hiking straight up hill to the base (4-5 mins up). However, the tower is most noticeable and impressive looking where the 8th stream crossing is. Oct 11, 2015
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
Kole DeCou   Flagstaff, AZ
I wonder how this tower got forgotten? Beautiful setting, and the last pitch is climactic.

I was confused by those bolts on the north side of the big ledge below the summit. They didn't seem like they were placed for rapping, and we didn't climb anywhere close to them on the way up.

Did the first ascent climb to the left from the end of the finger crack to the big ledge and then traverse right from those bolts?

Luckily the fires left this part of the canyon mostly untouched. Dec 2, 2015
This route is easily rappelled with one rope. R1: short rap east off the summit block. Look down and north to locate a set of bolts with very old tat. R2: Rap north to the base of pitch 2 (bring about 8' of tat for this one). Walk back around to the top of pitch 1. R3: Pick a convenient tree and rap to your packs. With a 70m rope you could probably eliminate the 2nd rappel and walk around.

Thanks Jake and Kole for resurrecting this great route! Jun 25, 2016

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