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Routes in Main Face

A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fifth Element T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hakuna Matata T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Homer Erectus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pucker Up T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Spray Down S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Caulk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: J. Holmes
Page Views: 65 total, 2/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

Excellent climbing up some of the best rock at main face. Somehow didn't make the guidebook. Start on ledge that is accessed by hopping along rocks past Last Chance. Can only be accessed at low tide, but the route does not seep like the other routes at this end of the face.

The climb traverses off the ledge on a horizontal crack then up a thin crack to a small roof. Traverse under this roof then up the obvious corner/flake feature. Climb this feature until easier flakes are reached, then straight up to the shark fin. Step left to a crack once standing on the fin, then climb this crack to a big grassy ledge (belay). Easy 5th class leads up to the east coast trail past here, roping up is optional.

Location

Right of Garden of Eden at the far right end of main face. Goes up to an obvious protruding "Shark Fin"

Protection

Double set of cams to #1 Camalot, 1x #2 camalot, nothing larger needed. Lots of large nuts, Ballnuts very useful.

Gear Anchor.

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