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Routes in The Lizard

Silent Movie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Songs from a Gentle Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: 1984
Page Views: 28 total · 1/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Jun 18, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Suggest Change]

The base of the crag is overhanging and looks impossible at this low grade, but it turns out to be covered in holds (and holes). After 25' of overhanging/very steep climbing on big jugs, the rest of the route is on a slab, trending up left to finish below the starting platform.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route is on Hollywood Walls, reached by walking east along the coast path from the café. Descend from a bench to a platform at the top of the cliff. Scramble down to the right (looking out) then carefully follow a ramp that heads left beneath the severely undercut base of the cliff, about 40' above the sea. Belay at the right-hand end at a large thin flake.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams and nuts.

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