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Routes in North Face Tiffany Mountain

NE Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI1-2
North Tower Ridge Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tower Arete T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 640 ft, 5 pitches
FA: 6/16/15
Page Views: 114 total, 4/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 16, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Climb the arĂȘte staying on the ridge as much as possible and being careful of the loose rock and boulders. This route follows the same ridge as the North Tower Ridge Route while avoiding that route's steeper, more technical pitches. It is a fun and easy route up sometimes questionable rock, with great exposure and views.

P1 - 4th class 100' - climb up the initial rocky ridge past the sandy grassy patch to the base of the long ridge section

P2 - 4th class 200' - climb along the low angled ridge to an alcove at the base of the tower

P3 - 4th class 175' - stay left of the vertical section and keep on the ridge to belay about 15' above a small stunted pine

P4 - 4th class 90' - belay on the top.

P5 - 3rd class 75' - continue along the crest to the south to gain the main slope of Tiffany

Descend by walking down the NW Ridge of Tiffany to the top of the NE Ridge above Little Tiffany Lake. Follow the old trail down this ridge to join the main trail near Honeymoon Pass.

Location

From Honeymoon pass hike up the old trail on the NE Ridge to the col above Little Tiffany Lake. Traverse to the south and down to the base of the prominent arĂȘte that leads to the North Tower (30 minutes from the pass)

Protection

60 m rope and a selection of long slings.

Photos

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