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Dr Taco

5.7, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 55 votes
FA: Michael Stewart, Randy LaForce, and Mike Gray
W Virginia > Eastern WV > Reeds Creek

Description

Mellow warm up

Location

In a small alcove, just left of the corner.

Protection

4 bolts and an anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TyrelJ
Alexandria, VA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Useful note, stay true or left of the bolt line going from 3 to 4. Going right risks ledge fall (saw someone hit the ledge by the tree about 20 feet up). It is possible to take out a bit of the runout with a #2 BD cam from 1 to 2 and a #3 from 3 to 4. May 31, 2016
Nick Leiby
Alexandria, VA
 
[Hide Comment] I played around with the cams, and would have preferred a BD #3 and #4 for the runouts. I didn't have a #4, but nuts slotted in the horizontals worked well, too. Apr 18, 2017
Noah Betz
Beattyville, KY
 
[Hide Comment] Left a BD oval as a replacement for one of the anchor carabiners. I left the old carabiner on the bolt Aug 23, 2021
Ryan Coppage
Richmond, VA
[Hide Comment] As a heads up, the main hold for pulling the little ledge broke off and is now a vertical fingertip crack, smeared with chalk and much harder than its original grade.

I ended up underclinging a chip in the ledge and throwing up over it, past the missing hold.

My friend set a kneebar there and reached high.

Be mindful that this climbs like a 5.7 but with now a spicy 5.9 move unless you move off bolt-line or do some 5.9 stuff in line with the bolts.

The mini roof on the 5.7 welcome to reeds creek left of it is now an infinitely easier climb. Sep 6, 2021