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Routes in The Record Shop

Appetite for Destruction S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bangerz S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bitches Brew T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Born in the USA T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Call Me Maybe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboys From Hell S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fly By Night S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Harmony in Ultraviolet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hitch a Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pet Sounds S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
TNT S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whiskey Bent and Hell Bound S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dustin Stephens, Scott Curran
Page Views: 809 total · 19/month
Shared By: Alex Mitchell on Jun 15, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

This beautiful right-slanting crack climbs great quality orange rock with a pumpy finish on large jugs.

Location

From Call Me Maybe and Bangerz walk right along the cliff. This route starts on a ledge just before you get to a small amphitheater.

Protection

One bolt protects the middle section. Make sure to bring a few large pieces even though the crack looks small from the ground. A #3 comes in handy at the top of the crack before the juggy part.

Photos

Taylor DeVault
Columbus, Ohio
 
Taylor DeVault   Columbus, Ohio
 
Not sure why this is listed at 5.8 on MP. It's consensus not 5.8 on redriverclimbing.com, and listed as 10a in the book. May 28, 2018
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a
Taylor - I am not sure either. I originally graded it 10a when I added the route. I have noticed on a few of my routes that my grading has been removed. May 30, 2018
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
5.10a
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
5.10a
Hey Alex and Taylor, MP uses a consensus grading now for the grade displayed on routes. I'm not completely clear on the algorithm used but because one user rated this 5.8, presumably before me and a couple others suggested 5.10a, it's likely it displayed as 5.8 for a while. Taylor, you can help the consensus grade by suggesting 5.10a (or whatever difficulty you feel it truly is). Jun 5, 2018
Scott Curran
Cincinnati, OH
 
Scott Curran   Cincinnati, OH
 
Let’s split the difference and call it 5.6 Jun 7, 2018
Taylor DeVault
Columbus, Ohio
 
Taylor DeVault   Columbus, Ohio
 
Jason thanks for your explanation, and Alex thanks for uploading. I was just trying to save some poor sap from getting on this thing thinking it was 5.8. Anyways, great line! Jun 9, 2018
Taylor DeVault
Columbus, Ohio
 
Taylor DeVault   Columbus, Ohio
 
Also Scott, thanks for the laugh and for putting this up! Jun 9, 2018

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