Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 330 total · 8/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 15, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Wow this route is good! Climb one of the lower tier climbs to gain a sloping ledge, most climbers choose Checkered Dog (5.9) as it leads directly to the base of the climb. Build an anchor or use the anchor for 'Checkered Dog' traverse back to the left to gain a corner and place some weird gear. climb to the beautiful left arching crack and place some small gear, sack up and climb the delicate moves through the smears and small tips until the gear gets bigger. Climb up and slightly right to a giant flake, several hand size cams will make this easy climbing feel very safe.  There are several bolts in the corner after the arching crack, these are shared with Shot on Sight and all need to be replaced. 

Location

This route is on the second tier on the right side of the Monolith.

Protection

Small to medium gear... TCUs in the smaller sizes, purples and even some grays might be nice, there are bolts on this, maybe three all need to be replaced, there are also two anchors, the first is about 5 ft below the rap anchor, these could also be replaced.  

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Griswald  
 
A variation of this climb is to climb the dihedral, clip the bolts and then climb a hollow hand and jug flake out right. Unless this is what you are describing? Jun 15, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10c
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10c
Thats the way I've done it. Jun 16, 2015
Mike Briseno
Anchorage, Alaska
 
Mike Briseno   Anchorage, Alaska
 
The moves in the left trending arch is the crux. A bomber .4 BD makes you feel a little better about it. The bolts are not great but i aided off them and they didn't pull out... Great climbing. According to the crickets this route does not get climbed all that often.The flake is lichen covered and the top is variable jungle. All in all a lot of fun. I need to go back with the beta in hand for the clean attempt. Jul 19, 2018