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Trusting Aborigines

5.11-, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Marty Schmidt, Charlie Sassara. 1984
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Hatcher Pass > Archangel Valle… > Diamond

Description

This route is right of Festoon. Climb through chicken heads roofs and dikes with interesting and sometimes difficult movement. When the bolts run out, traverse over and clip the weird bolts on festoon, pull the moss lip and walk to the anchor. It's possible to continue to the second anchor on Ruby Shoes, but expect runout climbing.

Location

right of Festoon and slightly downhill

Protection

4 stainless bolts, maybe a piece of gear or two, small.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Marty Schmidt climbed trusting aborigines first. He died on k2 with his son Jul 22, 2020
Charlie Sassara
Anchorage, AK
[Hide Comment] Yes Marty Schmidt and I put this up this route in 1984. More accurately ; Marty hand drilled while I held the rope. Jul 25, 2020
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] I’ve updated this route to reflect the correct information! Thanks Jim and Charlie, this is what makes MP so cool. Jul 25, 2020