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Routes in The Merlon

No Climb for Old Men T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Fortress T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1300 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: First known ascent: Ken Duncan, Mark Jenkins 2008
Page Views: 511 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ken Duncan on Jun 14, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

No Climb for Old Men climbs the south arete of the Merlon in 12 pitches. A low crux traverses right through a steep headwall. The main crux comes in the mid portion of the climb where the arete becomes blank. Here tricky climbing leads up the left side of the arete with thoughtful pro. At the huge ledge just below the summit we traversed left one pitch before topping out but in hindsight there is probably a dihedral heading more directly to the summit from the right side of the ledge.

Descent: Rappel and down climb the east ridge or rappel Super Fortress.

Location

South arete of the Merlon.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3"

Photos

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