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Routes in Devastation Pillar

Flying Cliff Babies S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Volcano Warrior S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Sport, TR, 105 ft
FA: Phil Gerhardtson & Travis Klawin
Page Views: 135 total, 4/month
Shared By: Steve Weyand on Jun 13, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Look for the line of brownish camouflaged bolts leading up the left side of Devastation Pilllar. The route begins by scrambling up easy 5th class terrain past 2 bolts. Clip a 3rd bolt before heading up a V0+ move with a possible ledge fall to clip the 4th bolt. Move up, then left pulling a mono with good feet to help pull through to a jug for the 5th clip. Follow fun pockets and crimps to the top and clip the chains. A 70 meter rope is a must have to lower off. Anything less will leave you stranded several meters up.

Location

This route can be accessed at the top for TR by scrambling through sand, burnt manzanitas and loose blocks. A 70 meter rope reaches the bottom with enough length to tie safety knots as a backup for a rappel or to lower off after a lead.

Protection

10 - 3/8" 5 piece stainless bolts with Blue Water Stainless hangers.
Anchor uses 2- 3/8" bolts and plated chain connected with a single cold shut for lower off or rappel.

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