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Routes in Bull Dog Rock

Bull Dog Direct S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Flake and Shake TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Left Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Peanut, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 245 total · 6/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 13, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Muscrat, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the easily visible bolted line in the center of Bull Dog Rock directly above the path to Castle Dome. It is between the crack and another line of bolts. Follow closely spaced bolts through some exciting moves.

Protection

The guide shows 6 bolts, but there are actually 12.
The bolts are somewhat old, most of the hangers look homemade, and they are almost all spinners. I was able to finger tighten some bolts, and others were too rusted. The anchor at the top is unusable, but you can easily use the anchor to the left.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10+
The guide showed six bolts, but after the bulge you'll see there's more to the route (12 total actually). I wonder if they rebolted it soon after with the exact same bolts/hangers.

We climbed it on the way down from Cosmic Wall so I didn't have many draws anyway, I ended up using single biners on the bolts that were in line with the route and backcleaned others since some bolts are very close. The route is pretty sustained and has many bulges to hit if you fall so skipping bolts doesn't really work. Jun 13, 2015
Crimper E6
cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Crimper E6   cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
 
Both anchors are pretty old and rubbish IMO! Also a one star route not 3! what is it with the over rating! Really, this is as good as the dyke route?? Oct 1, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.10+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.10+
No, the left anchor is OK. Top rope access is pretty simple too. A good route to top rope on your way down the hill. The lead bolts need to be replaced though. Oct 2, 2015

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