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One Crack Mind

5.10d, Trad, TR, 92 ft (28 m),  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > Yukon Territory > Golden Canyon > Dihedral Wall


Oh my god I love this climb.
Start left of the tree (or right of the tree if you're brave). Set some gear in the two parallel cracks when you can find it.
Reach a ledge, and traverse right to the money crack.
Head up the crack using some awesome hand and fist jams. Continue in this fashion, plugging #3s, a #4 and a #5 Until you get to thinner cracks. Here you can use a combination of jams and face climbing to reach the top anchors.
Don't leave Golden without doing this route!


Right of Crackin Up, by the pine tree.


Standard rack, doubles in the medium and large sizes. Maybe triples.
Anchors at top.

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One Crack Mind
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Derek Cronmiller
[Hide Comment] Ripped a huge flake off this today. Feels more like 10b-ish. No need for a 5, could do without the 4 as well. Top notch climb. Jul 17, 2016