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Routes in Eagle Rock

Karma Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 180 total, 6/month
Shared By: K Baumgartner on Jun 13, 2015
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

This is a three-pitch adventure climb that features licheny faces, a stellar P2 OW pitch that turns into loose monster blocks, a nice short hand to finger crack, and then a freeway ramp to the summit.

There are two possibilities for building an anchor atop P2.

P1: Move up successive ledges for about 30 feet (little to no pro on easy climbing) until you reach the vertical face with a small crack. Follow the seam until you reach a ledge with shuts (5.5, 80').

P2: Move left about 8 feet off the anchor into the first notch and send the short crack with a small bush obstructing your way. Gain another ledge and move left to another pod for the OW fun. Crux felt like getting out of the pod and up into the ever increasing OW. Look for face nubbins if your OW technique is less than stellar. Finish the OW at a few chossy large blocks. Aim up and right to the pine tree where you'll build a belay with an awkward stance. An alternate belay is to send the cracks moving right to the corner and build a belay off of a decrepit birch tree. (5.9, 100')

P3: From the pine tree, follow the cracks and then step up over a small bulge to the ramp, which you follow to the a large ledge just below the shuts. Send 10 feet of vertical but easy climbing to gain the anchor. (5.7, 110')

Location

Start about 30 feet left of the end of the river's end of Eagle Rock. Aim for the small crack about 20 feet right of the dihedral.

Two double rope rappels. From the summit anchors, drop your ropes straight down and climber's right of the large pine tree. There's an intermediate anchor below a small roof. If you drop your ropes to climber's left of the large pine tree, you'll have to scoot right about 30' to the anchors.

Protection

Standard Seneca rack with a #5, duplicates in #3 and #4 are helpful but not needed.

Photos

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