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Danse Macabre

5.12a, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
FA: Dave Sowerby
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (6) Bat Wall

Description

This short route packs quite a punch getting up into a deep "pod". Begin up bouldery moves to a small jug, then make very long, strenuous moves requiring solid body tension and good footwork. Then launch into burly sidepulling and crimping until you can get to a hidden pocket in the pod and pull up into. The hardest climbing is done at this point, but don't let your guard down just yet..

Location

Directly underneath Bloodline. Look for an anchor 40' up and 3 bolts going just inside a large "pod" like dihedral.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Danse Macabre and Bloodsucker
[Hide Photo] Danse Macabre and Bloodsucker

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zachary Radke
Corvallis, OR
[Hide Comment] Anybody know anybody who has red pointed this? Can't tell if this is sandbagged or just can't figure out the beta Dec 27, 2017
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I've done the moves, but haven't redpointed it. It's insanely sandbagged, and since it's a Sowerby route, it's certain to sandbagged anyway. Dec 27, 2017
Zachary Radke
Corvallis, OR
[Hide Comment] After the first few moves when you reach the jug, is it a dead point to that two finger crimp/gaston? I've been able to land that move but haven't been able to get out of it Dec 27, 2017
d sowerby
[Hide Comment] Good thing I didn't grade this 11d then? Because that was my first thought. Dec 14, 2019
Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] haha probably be more accurate, everyone knows 11d is harder than 12a! I don't think I've ever been on one of your routes that I thought was easy for the grade, that's for sure! :) Dec 14, 2019
d sowerby
[Hide Comment] re Greg's comment about tall person beta:
Well, as I'm only 5' 8" (on a good day) I certainly didn't use any "tall-person" beta. I'm pretty sure I've never done a V6.
Glad people are trying this climb though, and not being scared away :-) Feb 14, 2020
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] 1 star climb; 3 stars of fun. Worthy mini-project, boulder problem on a rope. Feb 20, 2020
Amory
Portland, OR
5.12b
[Hide Comment] For added fun, keep climbing past the first set of anchors and finish on Bloodsucker for Danse, Sucka, Dance. A worthy climb with a perplexing boulder problem start. Mar 25, 2021
dmPete
  5.12c
[Hide Comment] Beta video I found helpful. These guys know what they’re doing!

youtu.be/ghQiGfT2QD0 Apr 1, 2021