Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 700 ft|
|Page Views:||174 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||applewood on Jun 9, 2015|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionNE Couloir - grade I, 4th class *, AI1-2 700'
From Honeymoon Pass traverse SW along the east slope below the ridge crest to the cirque at the base of the main face. The 700+' NE Couloir is the longest most continuous narrow snow gully on the left side of the North Face. From the head of the cirque veer left staying on the snow as much as possible (slope is mostly about 40 with up to 55 degrees at the top, with a couple of steeper sections at the 1/3 and 2/3 points). Crux is at the upper narrow section (on first ascent this steeper section was melted and required scrambling up steep wet and muddy rock - if continuous with snow it would probably be more difficult, perhaps AI3, and require belays and gear - medium nuts and pickets).
Note; an emergency descent would be difficult even with a rope from the crux section due to the scarcity of good anchor placements.
Finishes on the summit ridge about 30' east of the summit register.
Descend by walking off the NW summit ridge to access the NE Ridge above Little Tiffany Lake. Follow the old unmaintained trail down the NE Ridge to the main (#373) trail at Honeymoon Pass.