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Routes in Fat and Happy area

Beach The Wale V1- 5-
Blair Witch V5+ 6C+
Coven, The V0- 4-
Fat and Happy V4+ 6B+
Glenna V0 4
Just Desserts V-easy 3
More Pudding V-easy 3
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Sean Gilman
Page Views: 129 total · 4/month
Shared By: Sean Gilman on Jun 8, 2015
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

The split rock on right is off. Start in the middle of face on lower left jugs, make move up to good incut edge in face, make big move to sloper up and right, match and finish on jugs. using split rock on right side makes this problem v3.

Location

first large boulder west off trail. If you look out from the top of the Trailside Wall to the west and the leaves aren't too thick you should see it a few hundred feet away. It is part of a rocky clump.

Protection

1 pad

Photos

Sean Gilman  
 
Yeah the rock on the right is off when I did it. From the start jug down low, moved up to horizontal and went up right to sloper. Matched and topped out Apr 10, 2016
M Sprague
New England
  V4
M Sprague   New England  
  V4
Sean, do you mean the rock to the right of the big split is off, or the rock just left of the arete kind of below the incut hold, which has lots of vertical splits in it is off?
First go I jammed my fingers too tightly in the horizontal, kind of botched the feet and got the bad part of the sloper so had to climb down and thought the route was kind of nasty, but after doing the two routes to the right I came back and hit it right (used foot holds right on the arete to be able to get the sloper staticly) and it felt much more fun. The route is a little raw, but the right beta makes the route much more pleasant. Mar 31, 2016