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Routes in Western Bouldering Area

Depressed Arete V0+ 4+
Eternal Traverse, The V0-1 4+
Flaming Testicle V3+ 6A+
Flaming Testicle, Left V2 5+
Tomb, The V3 6A
Type: Boulder, 11 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 365 total, 12/month
Shared By: Zek on Jun 8, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is a safer and more technical variation of Flaming Testiscle. Extremely fun problem once you can flow through it.

Beta:
Start on obvious, large holds to the right and behind the testicle. The testicle has good holds on the rear. Using a mantle, position yourself against the wall, towards the flat side of the testicle. Continue left using pockets and other holds until hitting the huecos. Last two main moves are dynamic for most heights, but are not full dynos.

Crux:
1st: Getting behind the testicle. If you're feeling brave, a head bar can help take pressure off your hands. Good landing, just use a spotter so you don't land head first.
2nd: Getting to huecos. Find the sweet spots. Plenty foot positioning to be used.

Other:

  • The back wall is fragile/crumbly but should not pose an issue.
  • Height will help with the huecos, shortness will help with going from against the wall to the move before the huecos
  • Down climb is rough, don't suggest topping out

Location

~200 feet forward on the climbers trail. When getting on the trail it will be directly ahead of you, but will be on your left once you follow it.

Protection

Pad and spotter. Topping out not recommended.

Photos

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