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Routes in Elephant's Head

Middle Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trunk - Right Variant, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trunk, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
left variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 349 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 8, 2015 with updates from John Halupowski
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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3 short routes, coupled with alternate starts and variants, on the "North Face" are usually top-roped from the bolts. (Although the furthest left crack may have been FA'd on a late 1960's AMC "upcountry" trip).

Rap from the bolts [see NOTE !] at the top of the North Face, 60 ft down to a ledge with a pine tree. By placing directional gear in cracks near the top, at least 3 or 4 routes can be safely top-roped, one of which (not sure exactly which one) seems to include some of the climbing on the "Left Variant". See Sketch-Topo PHOTO.

To get to the left most of the 3 climbs, and the 5.7 start to the middle (5.8) "crack" chimney/climb up 6-8ft to the "next level" on the ramp after the rap down.

NOTE: In 2017 a new 2 bolt (SS 3/8) anchor was installed in solid rock, climbers right of the old anchors. These should be used in place of the old bolts (which are still there) one of which is driven into now-hollow-sounding rock.


On the "North" / "West" side of the "Head"


Slings for bolts, TCU's or nuts to back up the older bolt; mostly medium-sized cams for directionals.



More About Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face