Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Elephant's Head

Middle Variant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trunk - Right Variant, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trunk, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
left variant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 274 total · 8/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jun 8, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


3 short routes, coupled with alternate starts and variants, on the "North Face" are usually top-roped from the bolts. (Although the furthest left crack may have been FA'd on a late 1960's AMC "upcountry" trip).

Rap from the bolts [see NOTE !] at the top of the North Face, 60 ft down to a ledge with a pine tree. By placing directional gear in cracks near the top, at least 3 or 4 routes can be safely top-roped, one of which (not sure exactly which one) seems to include some of the climbing on the "Left Variant". See Sketch-Topo PHOTO.

To get to the left most of the 3 climbs, (and the 5.7 start to the middle (5.8) "crack") chimney/climb up 6-8ft to the "next level" on the ramp.

NOTE: One of the bolts is a 1/2 inch (yes, 1/2") with a steel hanger, the other is an older 5/16" / 3.8" with a commercial Aluminum hanger. This bolt is DRIVEN INTO WHAT IS NOW* 'HOLLOW SOUNDING' ROCK. BACK IT UP WITH TCU's OR NUTS BEFORE USING !
  • One assumes the rock was originally sound.


On the "North" / "West" side of the "Head"


Slings for bolts, TCU's or nuts to back up the older bolt; mostly medium-sized cams for directionals.



More About Top Rope Routes on "North"/"West" Face

Printer-Friendly Guide