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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens
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B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Bird T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Prow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circus Act T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demian T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Dynamic Resistance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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From Something to Nothing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanging Gardens Full T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Gardens Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hoe, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Least Resistance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prometheus Slab B T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sickle, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slapfest S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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So Embarrassing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tips City T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| FA: | FFA Dave Sowerby, FA Bob McGown. |
| Page Views: | 1,645 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Micah Klesick on Jun 7, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
From the midway anchor of Circus Act, clip with a long extension draw to reduce drag. Once on on the overhanging arete, slap your way up to what is supposedly a 5.11 crux just after the first bolt (looks like 2-3 hard moves on slopers), and then move up on jugs to a low angle slab and a cam placement. Head straight up to a bolt, and then pull pumpy lieback moves up the steep overhang to the next bolt, clip the bolt, make a few more lieback moves, and then a dynamic move to a jug (I'm guessing here), and finish to the new anchors outfitted with sport clip biners. I moved the old anchors down as they were originally on a completely detached block. Anchor clipping hold is still the same.
Be warned that the route done from ground to top is just under 40m, and you will need to lower to the midway anchor in order to get down.
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