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For Whom the Bell Tolls

5.9+, Sport,  Avg: 3 from 14 votes
FA: Dave Hopper
Idaho > W Idaho > Mores Mountain > Rdside Rock

Description

The crack and flake line that is the first line of bolts left of Backslide. Climb through a hard slot (crux, maybe 5.10?, handjams VERY useful & sharp) into a corner below a massive flake.
Layback and jam the flake to the chains.

Location

First line of bolts left of Backslide.

Protection

Bolts. You could probably get gear behind the flake, but it talks, and felt slightly expando.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

About to climb the beautiful flake after pulling the lower crux.
[Hide Photo] About to climb the beautiful flake after pulling the lower crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Petsfed
Bay Area, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The grade is a wild guess. Its really not in keeping with the slabby character of the area, so direct comparisons are difficult.
The name is a placeholder, pending the release of the new guidebook, or the FA speaking up. We called it, simple, "The Flake".
The first two bolts are in the crux, so you might considering a stick clip. You pass an unpleasantly loose chockstone before the 3rd bolt. Act accordingly.
The jams are painful, so tape might be worthwhile. Alternately, add a couple letters to the grade and layback everything.
And seriously, that enormous flake is sketchy as hell. Otherwise, this would be a 4-star (trad) pitch. I'd be seriously concerned about popping the flake, or all my gear below, if I fell on a cam placed behind that thing. Jun 7, 2015
Trevor.
Boise, ID
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I think it actually protects better to clip the first bolt on the route just left of this, and then start clipping the 'correct' bolts from the second bolt on.

I agree that leading it on gear isn't a good idea. The flake is a bit dubious, and falling would likely rip gear or maybe even break the flake.

That said, it's a cool pitch, with the upper portion being reminiscent of a grittier Rye Crisp. Jul 5, 2015
Joshua Benjamin
Nampa, Idaho
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Best route up at Mores.

It was bolted by Dave Hopper and Hal Roseberry, so I assume one of those guys got the FA. I'll ask Dave what the name of the route is called.

The crux is a bouldery start at the first bolt, but only about 5.10a. It's well protected.

The flake is really fun to climb! There are knobs ("crystals") for feet and you can lay back on the whole flake. The flake itself is about 5.8 and also well protected, plus you get a good rest before climbing it.

Because of the crux move at the first bolt I'd give it a 5.9+ rating.

(Edit: Dave Hopper had the FA and said the route is named "For Whom the Bell Tolls")

06/24/18: There's still a seriously loose block when pulling up to the second bolt. Be careful.
08/12/18: The block is gone. I don't know if this changes the grade or not. Jul 16, 2015
Michael Beasley
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] Absolutely agree this is the best route at Mores and goes at 10a at the start and gets much easier the higher you get. The beginning crux is well protected, which is unusual for this area. Fun liebacks up the xylophone flake. Both anchors are spinners, and should probably be backed up with a solid bolt, the hollow flake gives this climb enough excitement. Aug 2, 2015
Cassidy Thomas
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] At first, I hated this route. I thought the stated grade was far off while I was trying to get into the start of this route. Beware, there is a very large loose block in the slot at the beginning of the route. The beginning took some thinking and I had to full some difficult but fun moves to get up. The opening moves on this route honestly felt a little harder than 10a to me, maybe 10b. Then it eases up for a few bolts before you pull a couple tricky moves to get into the flake section. This flake section makes the route!!! It is some solid and fun climbing, one of my favorite routes I've done all year. It's difficult to rate given the very difficult beginning and then fun a sustained 5.8-5.9 climbing on the flake section. I think the 5.9+ is a good compromise, just be prepared for a interesting start to the route. Aug 17, 2016