Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
This climb ascends the taller eastern (left) buttress (fin) as opposed to the western buttress (fin) which is the last pitch of the Gephardt-Dufty. Scramble up to a ledge on the buttress that lies to the left of the Great Chimney route, or climb the first three pitches of Gephardt-Dufty and do some easy bushwhacking pitch to connect to the base of the eastern buttress. This latter method is really where the decent climbing is; the rest is highly vegetated and poor quality rock.
#1. Climb the narrow (less than 10 feet) north face to a ledge near the top. (140 ft.) Initial climbing is on very clean, light color, rock with almost no lichen. Belay on a ledge on a west (climbers right) wall.
#2. Climb up to a large ledge on top of the buttress (30 ft.). Parts of this section was covered by thick layer of lichen.
Staying left on the 2nd pitch is also an option and is about 5.6 R on decent rock.
General rack. Many good nut and small cam placements.
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Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
Campton, NH/Warmington, UK
Sorry if anything I've posted makes you feel like it's a personal attack...that was not my intention. Hate? No. God-complex? I certainly hope not.
You've put some routes on here that have helped fill out the database. Good. Thanks. That needs to happen and I'm sure people will appreciate it...I certainly do. But in my opinion you've rated those climbs (such as Initiation) highly, when really they are things that should be on here for posterity's sake (For example, you rate Initiation 3 stars. Take a look on here at other 3-star routes). Many of them probably shouldn't be climbed by anyone because they are either covered in trees, moss, loose rocks, etc and/or are downright dangerous. When routes like this are in the "easy" category my concern is that they will attract newer trad leaders who will quickly get in over their head. Now you could say that it's their responsibility for their own safety, etc. That's true. But then, what's the point of using MP as a resource for information? In my mind, people come here looking for people's opinions and ratings.
As I recall, there were a number of other routes you entered on here that showed up in quick succession and may have read like they were copied from one of the older guidebooks; some entries had been superseded by new information. Bottom line is that I took issue with it, but I admit to that being a bit petty and I apologize. While I've put a lot of work into the Seneca site, it's a community resource...I'm not an admin and I certainly don't own it.
Certainly you have your own opinions. And maybe you have really great memories of climbing some of these routes when they weren't in the shape they are now. I would hope that people would take "with a grain of salt" any entry on here with only one "tick" (be it a one-star or four-star). Now, if you go and climb it and clean it anew - that's a different story. I know for certain there are several routes that would probably rate at least a 2-star if they were cleaned and climbed more.
MP's quality is only as good as what we put into it. Which, in my opinion, means that if you post a route, description, etc you owe it to the community to put some critical thought and consideration into what you post. It's fine to put stuff on here "for posterity", but then you ought to state that...in my opinion. Just something to think about.
Again, apologies if anything I've said came off "hateful" or otherwise condescending. It was not my intention at all. And if you'd like to join some of the climbing community members in showing Seneca some love, join us on trail work day. We usually do them 2X a year. Next one is 09/10 April.
V/r,
-Andy Mar 16, 2016
Pittsburgh, PA