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A Waltz for the few Remaining
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
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Routes in Rattler Crags
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A Waltz for the few Remaining T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Chris Moore |
| Page Views: | 791 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | The Real Battitude on Jun 6, 2015 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
p1.- 5.10c pg13, 9 bolts, a few camalots .4,.5,1,3 and one or two double length slings.
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m
p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.
p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"
Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m
p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.
p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"
Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..
Protection
1x set cams from .4''-3''
10x or so draws
2x double length slings ( nice to extend pro in p1 o/w)
1x 70m rope
10x or so draws
2x double length slings ( nice to extend pro in p1 o/w)
1x 70m rope
Description
p1.- 5.10c pg13, 9 bolts, a few camalots .4,.5,1,3 and one or two double length slings.
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m
p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.
p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"
Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..
Disclaimer- crux moves are well bolted but the overall climbing might feel a little necky by pine creek standards, expect runouts or about 15-20ft on the 5.8 terrain. as of june '15 only two ascents total.
Ascend the arete clipping bolts and pull a tricky bulge (crux). climb up to a hands to o/w crack (gear+long slings) then continue slightly runout knobby arete climbing at 5.8-.9 to a two bolt anchor. 40m
p2.- climb 10 ft of 5.6 crack to a ledge essentially move the belay across the ledge to the next wall.
p3. - 5.8r 1 bolt, all gear. start up a splitter thin hands and fingercrack and follow the crack as it shoots out right to the arete. climb up beautiful brown patina passing one bolt. save a yellow and a purple metolious for some pro in flakes toward the top. two bolt anchor is out left of the "summit"
Decent: Rap with one 70m rope. Anchors are bolted with carabiner Mussy set ups. please leave the biners.. rap pitch one off the the right into the gully to reach. The pitch raps fine but I dont think you could lower off a leader..
Disclaimer- crux moves are well bolted but the overall climbing might feel a little necky by pine creek standards, expect runouts or about 15-20ft on the 5.8 terrain. as of june '15 only two ascents total.
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