Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shanty Cliff

(tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bidonville T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Breadline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climber's Yodel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corktown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Favela T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flying Friends T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grandson of Circuitous Shit T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Gripe of Wrath S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gunky Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hard Times S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Life and Debt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gem Diner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mean Low Blues T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pug Love T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Railroad Dickie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
River View TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Rocinha T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shanty Girl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shantyclear T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Shantytown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleep Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Slumlord T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Son of Circuitous Shit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Soup Kitchen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Soweto T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swampoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Time Trials T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vernal Imperatives T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Justin Serpico and Paul Cerone
Page Views: 140 total · 3/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Jun 2, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is somewhat reminiscent of Circuitous Shit but more sustained 5th class climbing. Climb up to a small ledge, traverse left on good holds about 10ft to below twin cracks to the right of a large boulder. Climb the cracks to the ledge, step right and climb the right facing corner finger crack that opens into a hand crack (crux, PG13/R, unprotectable at this time with potential ledge fall, once clean it will take a #1 or #2 camalot). Layback while smearing through the crux to a small ledge. From the ledge, turn left, step up into the left most crack and foot traverse up to the summit slab. Remember to protect your second on this climb at the bottom and at the top. Belay from trees or build a gear anchor in the slab.

Location

Extreme right end of the Sports arena, just before the gully. Start 15ft right of Decathlon directly behind a multitrunked tree. (V1) Direct start climbs the broken face below the twin cracks (almost directly under the crux corner). Direct start is a bit harder and less interesting but avoids the low traverse and potential rope drag.

Protection

Small cams (up to .75 camalot), medium nuts. The crux and upper crack can take hand/fist sized cams. Remember to protect your second for both traverses.

A 60m rope will not touch the ground from the larger trees above the Sports Arena, we rappelled to the Chains of Corktown and then rappelled a second time.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About (tbd, currently) Orange Gladiators

Printer-Friendly