Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Justin Serpico and Paul Cerone
Page Views: 146 total · 3/month
Shared By: J. Serpico on Jun 2, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

This route is somewhat reminiscent of Circuitous Shit but more sustained 5th class climbing. Climb up to a small ledge, traverse left on good holds about 10ft to below twin cracks to the right of a large boulder. Climb the cracks to the ledge, step right and climb the right facing corner finger crack that opens into a hand crack (crux, PG13/R, unprotectable at this time with potential ledge fall, once clean it will take a #1 or #2 camalot). Layback while smearing through the crux to a small ledge. From the ledge, turn left, step up into the left most crack and foot traverse up to the summit slab. Remember to protect your second on this climb at the bottom and at the top. Belay from trees or build a gear anchor in the slab.

Location

Extreme right end of the Sports arena, just before the gully. Start 15ft right of Decathlon directly behind a multitrunked tree. (V1) Direct start climbs the broken face below the twin cracks (almost directly under the crux corner). Direct start is a bit harder and less interesting but avoids the low traverse and potential rope drag.

Protection

Small cams (up to .75 camalot), medium nuts. The crux and upper crack can take hand/fist sized cams. Remember to protect your second for both traverses.

A 60m rope will not touch the ground from the larger trees above the Sports Arena, we rappelled to the Chains of Corktown and then rappelled a second time.

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