Type: Trad, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Fred Becky, Helmy Becky, Robert Craig and William Ford
Page Views: 2,383 total · 54/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on May 31, 2015 with updates from Gwillim
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

16 Opinions

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Start on the ridge slightly to climbers left. Beginning in a short corner/chimney feature.


On the left side of the face, as you approach. Starting on the notch of the ridge.


Typical alpine rack. Nothing larger than a #3 is needed.


Jennifer L  
The best place for pitch-by-pitch info is the Summit Post page. I also thought Chris Willett's logistics beta (although written back in 2007) was very useful. Sep 1, 2015
Gabe O'Leary
Seattle, WA
Gabe O'Leary   Seattle, WA
Fun, slightly stiffer climb than the nearby popular south face of the tooth. P2 is the money pitch although P4 has a fun move. Makes for a great summit bivy with room for 2+ on the true summit. While descending the East Ridge it looks fairly easy from above but is considerably hairier than it appears. I'd recommend doing 2 rappels. Using the 3rd rap anchor (after you follow the trail to the left and down through some trees) is unnecessary, this section is fine to down climb. Sep 18, 2017
Narendran Sivasubramanian   Seattle, WA
Regarding gear:

You can possibly ignore #3 and #2. Nuts + 0.4 - #1 would be sufficient. If any, bring extra nuts.

I used double length runners almost everywhere. Oct 2, 2018