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Linda's Route

5.9+, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches,  Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
FA: Linda Marks, Joe Herbst, Nanouk Borche, Matt McMacken. 1978
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 09-Icebox Canyon > Frigid Air Buttress
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Follow the line to the right of Frigid Air Buttress eventually sharing the last pitch of that route.

P1: 5.8, 70m beginning at a short face to the crack mentioned in the description above to a bushy ledge.  There is definitely some vegetation and moss at the top of the pitch.  Belay at the oak trees at the base of the chimney.
 P2: 5.8, 65m.  From the oak tree, climb up the squeezy chimney and then into a narrower crack system.  The ramp to the chimney and the bottom of the chimney protect poorly.
 P3: 5.7, 40m.  Follow a vegetated corner system into a roof and step right onto the featured face.  Easy face climbing up to a very large treed ledge.
 P4: 5.9, 70m.  Shift the belay to the base of the large clean chimney just left of the impossible right sweeping crescent crack.  Stem and body chimney about half a pitch to some face climbing and into a corner system to the base of the final pitch of Frigidaire Buttress.  Gear larger than a #4 likely won't help protect the chimney.  Belay at a treed ledge at the base of the final pitch.
 P5: 5.9+.  From the treed ledge, climb up a 5.7 face to the base of the hand then finger crack.  The crux is perhaps 30' up the crack where it briefly narrows to a short shallow off fingers section.  Rattle or lieback this finger crack past the crux.  After that short section, the difficulty eases up considerably.  After the crack ends, climb a short unprotected face (5.7) above a gully to belay at boulders and trees below the final scramble pitch

Location

Start on the obvious vertical crack 40 ft right of Frigid Air Buttress route.

Protection

Standard rack to 4 inches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P3: Start of pitch 3 of Lindas Route
[Hide Photo] P3: Start of pitch 3 of Lindas Route
P4: Jeff high in the chimney of pitch 4 of Linda's Route.
[Hide Photo] P4: Jeff high in the chimney of pitch 4 of Linda's Route.
P2: Ken in the midst of the squeeze chimney of pitch 2 of Linda's route.  This is not from belay station (short roping)
[Hide Photo] P2: Ken in the midst of the squeeze chimney of pitch 2 of Linda's route. This is not from belay station (short roping)
P3: Beginning of pitch 3 of Linda's Route
[Hide Photo] P3: Beginning of pitch 3 of Linda's Route
P2: Jeff leading pitch 2 of Linda's route
[Hide Photo] P2: Jeff leading pitch 2 of Linda's route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

dave Hause
carrboro, nc
5.9+
[Hide Comment] It's a good alternative if Frigid Air is busy. Apr 12, 2017
Ryan Lawrence
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 11/26/17 because Frigid Air was busy. The climbing wasn't too bad just some delicate holds and a little bit of bush whacking at the top of pitch 1. We did the climb in 5 pitches with a 70m rope and used trees for anchors the whole way up. The descent took us 1 hour in total to get back to our packs (Used two 70's to rap). Also, the last pitch of Frigid Air is so sweet and is a great final pitch to end the day on! I had fun on it. I'd climb it again. Nov 28, 2017
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is a great route if you want to climb some big chimney pitches that protect without huge gear. We did it with a 70m rope as 5 pitches with a short belay shift between P1 and P2 (a little simul could skip the shift). I don't know that I'd call this a great alternative to Frigidaire Buttress.

Here was our breakdown:
P1: 5.8, 70m beginning at a short face to the crack mentioned in the description above to a bushy ledge. There is definitely some vegetation and moss at the top of the pitch. Belay at the oak trees at the base of the chimney.
P2: 5.8, 65m. From the oak tree, climb up the squeezy chimney and then into a narrower crack system. The ramp to the chimney and the bottom of the chimney protect poorly.
P3: 5.7, 40m. Follow a vegetated corner system into a roof and step right onto the featured face. Easy face climbing up to a very large treed ledge.
P4: 5.9, 70m. Shift the belay to the base of the large clean chimney just left of the impossible right sweeping crescent crack. Stem and body chimney about half a pitch to some face climbing and into a corner system to the base of the final pitch of Frigidaire Buttress. Gear larger than a #4 likely won't help protect the chimney. Belay at a treed ledge at the base of the final pitch.
P5: 5.9+. From the treed ledge, climb up a 5.7 face to the base of the hand then finger crack. The crux is perhaps 30' up the crack where it briefly narrows to a short shallow off fingers section. Rattle or lieback this finger crack past the crux. After that short section, the difficulty eases up considerably. After the crack ends, climb a short unprotected face (5.7) above a gully to belay at boulders and trees below the final scramble pitch.

Scramble pitch:
Scramble up to the top of formation by crossing a gully and climbing up an easy and short right facing crack. Move right then climb the easy face up and left to the top of the this point on the buttress. You should see cairns down and left from here.

Descent: modified from the Frigidaire description:
From the top of the formation scramble behind, down, and left through blocks to a large chockstone likely equipped with rap slings. We rappelled 80'. It doesn't look like a fun downclimb. Proceed along the well-cairned ridge, avoiding the temptation to drop steeply right to the upper canyon behind the buttress. If you roughly follow the edge of the buttress you'll find a pine tree with rap slings about 60' before the ridge hits the canyon where the stream runs. An easy downclimb of about 15' leads to the tree. Rap about 50' to a big ledge with an bolted anchor. You may need to replace the cord as there is a rough edge below the bolts. Rap straight down without traversing. There are two possible stations, both reachable with a 60m rope (~190'): one is a bolted belay station while the other is a single bolt, a tree, and a fixed nut. We used the single bolt station which is the lower of the two. From this station, it is ~80' to a big ledge with a tree. Rap 100' from the tree to the bottom. Find a thin and broken trail on the skiers right of the creek back to about 50' below the elevation of the route then look for the well used trail to the base of Frigidaire Buttress and traverse right 50' to the base of the route. You can also boulder hop down the dry creek but we found that slower. Oct 28, 2018
drewp
 
[Hide Comment] Many variations possible on the second to last pitch. We went left up the face and then rejoined the corner as described via a rad traverse before coming up a really pretty slab into a corner. Adventure choss. Nov 26, 2018
Ted Baker
Fresno, CA
[Hide Comment] Found some gear on the ledge on top of pitch 3. Send me a message with info on what gear you left and we can arrange to get it to you. 6 days ago