Type: Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 8 pitches
FA: Linda Marks, Joe Herbst, Nanouk Borche, Matt McMacken. 1978
Page Views: 2,142 total · 19/month
Shared By: dave Hause on May 31, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Follow the line to the right of Frigid Air Buttress eventually sharing the last pitch of that route.

P1: 5.8, 70m beginning at a short face to the crack mentioned in the description above to a bushy ledge.  There is definitely some vegetation and moss at the top of the pitch.  Belay at the oak trees at the base of the chimney.
 P2: 5.8, 65m.  From the oak tree, climb up the squeezy chimney and then into a narrower crack system.  The ramp to the chimney and the bottom of the chimney protect poorly.
 P3: 5.7, 40m.  Follow a vegetated corner system into a roof and step right onto the featured face.  Easy face climbing up to a very large treed ledge.
 P4: 5.9, 70m.  Shift the belay to the base of the large clean chimney just left of the impossible right sweeping crescent crack.  Stem and body chimney about half a pitch to some face climbing and into a corner system to the base of the final pitch of Frigidaire Buttress.  Gear larger than a #4 likely won't help protect the chimney.  Belay at a treed ledge at the base of the final pitch.
 P5: 5.9+.  From the treed ledge, climb up a 5.7 face to the base of the hand then finger crack.  The crux is perhaps 30' up the crack where it briefly narrows to a short shallow off fingers section.  Rattle or lieback this finger crack past the crux.  After that short section, the difficulty eases up considerably.  After the crack ends, climb a short unprotected face (5.7) above a gully to belay at boulders and trees below the final scramble pitch

Location Suggest change

Start on the obvious vertical crack 40 ft right of Frigid Air Buttress route.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 4 inches