Type: Trad, Aid, 900 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: Burcham/Giovale 2003
Page Views: 3,607 total · 62/month
Shared By: Casey Niggemyer on May 31, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Route description

The Great Dihedral is an ultra classic sedona climb and possibly the longest route in the area. It was originally rated 5.11+ because of the first pitch, a 150 plus foot technical slab with 14 bolts. Unfortunately, after trying the route several times myself and talking to other parties who have repeated the route it has become clear that holds may have broken, causing the pitch to no longer go free, at least nowhere near the purposed grade. Thus the 5.10 A0 rating. Never the less, the remaining 9 pitches offer high quality climbing sustained in the 5.10 range. Expect lots of burly wide climbing, as well as cryptic sandstone face climbing. The route faces northwest and gets shade until the mid afternoon, making it a good choice when the weather is hot.

The pitch break down is as follows:

Pitch 1. A0 160' Batman up the fixed line for 30 feet until you reach the start of 14 bolts. get up the pitch however you can (i clipped in direct and stick clipped multiple bolts in a row). ends on a midsize vegetated ledge. bring singles from .4 through #2.

pitch 2. 5.8 80 feet. climb up into a chimney with a lone bolt half way up. bring gear to #2. belay on a small ledge to up and to the right.

Pitch 3. 5.10 90 feet. clip a bolt off the belay and slither your way up the Bombay chimney. layback and stem your way up twin cracks. bring all gear .75 and up.

Pitch 4. 5.10. 100 feet. layback, fist jam, and butterfly your way up a wide crack in a corner. Bring all gear .75 and up.

Pitch 5. 5.10. 100 feet. jam and undercling your way out a series of roofs with various and interesting faceholds. all gear up to #3.

Pitch 6. 5.10 70 feet. walk across vegetated ledge and climb up awkward chimney flare to sloping face holds. Batman up a fixed line for 10 feet. this will take you to the half way ledge. singles to #4. Belay off of large tree Pitches 5 and 6 can be combined with wise use of runners.

Pitch 7. 5.10. 110 feet. You can leave all the big gear here. Bring one #4 with you to the top, nothing bigger. Move the belay up and left to a single bolt. start up a slab and clip 2 bolts, trending left to a wide hand crack. follow this up to an awkward traverse around a bulge to the next belay.

Pitch 8. 5.10 100 feet. climb up off the belay to a right trending ramp with small pods for gear. continue up several bolts and then traverse left to the belay. all gear #3 and under.

Pitch 9. 5.10+/V4. 50 feet. Boulder problem in the sky pitch. traverse right off belay to a ledge and clip a bolt above your head. heel hook above your head and throw for small crimps. Wild! 2 bolts and singles #2 and under.

Pitch 10. 5.9 120 feet. climb up right trending crack and traverse slight right into another crack gain a large grassy sloping ledge with lots of exposure. clip the bolt half way across ledge and continue for another 10 or 15 feet right to a short corner. climb this, looking left to spot the first rappel anchors, and continue up lower angle terrain and belay off tree. Full rack.

Descent: look for a ledge to the left after the last bolt on the tenth pitch. On the far left side of the ledge are the first rap anchors. From here, double rope rap back to the top of the boulder problem pitch. Do another double rope rap to get back to the halfway ledge. Batman down the fix line for 15 feet to the next rap anchors. From here do a short single rope rap which puts you just above the roof of pitch 5. Double rope rap to the the top of the third pitch. Double rope rap again to get th the top of the first pitch. One more rap will get you to the ground.

Rack:
Singles of green, red, and gold c3 cams or equivalent.
Doubles from .4 Camalot to #5.
One #6
Small to medium stoppers
14 draws or runners
2 ropes.

Photos