PRINT: Rock Climb Cotton Mouth King, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Cotton Mouth King

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 85 votes
FA: Greg Martinez, Laura Dewey, 2009
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Hellgate Cliffs > E Hellgate > Melting Mud Wall

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Access Issue: Stay on the trails Details

This is private property. Respect it and consider it a privilege to climb here.

Description

Starts sort of hard then there is break as the climb trends up and left towards Brain Donner. The climbing is a good mix of crimps, pockets, side pulls and an undercling or two.
The holds change but the route is sustained. Good fun.

Location

Look for the route with a length of chain on the 2nd bolt.

Protection

15 draws

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT

Good route, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by using the hand jam next door. Jun 5, 2015

Cassidy Thomas
Syracuse, NY

It's really easy to set up a top rope on this route by climbing Antidote, and then just going right past the chains up towards Cotton Mouth's Chains. Just take a few extra draws. The last bolt of Cotton Mouth King is just a little bit above the chains for Antidote, not sketchy at all. Sep 9, 2016

Dan Berger
SLC, UT

Fantastic route. Long and more sustained than Brain Doner, but with slightly easier moves. The rock is bomber, and there are a few good rests throughout the route. Jun 10, 2018

Fernando Cal
SLC, UT

13 draws + 2 for chains Jun 9, 2022

Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT

Good sustained climbing. Crux down low, then at mid height followed by a pump crux near the top. Jul 13, 2022

Russ Keane
Salt Lake

5.10d

At the beginning, this climb and the 10a Antidote are very close together. Easy to end up on the wrong climb, Oct 10, 2022