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Routes in Olton's Shoulder Area

Double Bind V4 6B
Flamingo Drinker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Olton's Bulge T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Olton’s Shoulder 1936 Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paper Beats Rock T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Torre Oculta T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch, Taylor Lais, Jamie Coin, Harrison Teuber
Page Views: 70 total, 2/month
Shared By: harrison t on May 29, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A worthy addition to the moderates of Rushmore. Great "thuggy" climbing on the first pitch to an easier, but still engaging second pitch.

1) 5.10+ Climb through the first bulge and up the corner placing great gear. Once to the steepness clip a high bolt off great holds and pull on up passing another bolt and gear to the anchor. good ledge. Great pitch on its own. Gear and 3 bolts

2) 5.9+ Traverse delicately left up the small ramp using tiny crystals on the face. Follow a couple bolts passing a black knob and a small ledge until under the right side of a roof, place a piece and pull a bulge. Follow the path of weakness to the top being careful of some loose flakes. Belay up your second and then traverse to the W on easy ground to find the slung rap anchor. Some decent ride potential, but shouldn't be a problem for anyone climbing the 1st pitch. Gear and 3 bolts.

Credit to Hirsch for finding the line and Lais for such a creative name.

Location

Up and left from the low angled chimney start to the 'original route'
Look for a right facing corner that leads up to a juggy bulge in gold rock.

Protection

Single rack. draws
2 bolt anchor for pitch 1. gear anchor atop p2 takes anything from #1-4
Single rope rap down S face from slung webbing

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