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Routes in The Nursery

Art of Turd Polishing, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baby Steps S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Beaver Patrol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
End of State Maintenance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuzzy Muffin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hazy Dazy S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot Wet Noodles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kate's Way S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kentucky Two Step S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lesser of Two Evils, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master of Puppets S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nursery Route 1 (closed) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Pixadoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solomon Grundy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southern Satisfaction S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stick in the Eye S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dan Nants, Bob Bartlett
Page Views: 665 total · 16/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 27, 2015 with updates from Wyatt lee
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the overhung face and get your money's worth for the grade in the first 10 feet. Recommend stick clipping the first bolt if you're not solid on 11s. After that just pumpy and fun moves to the chains.

Location

Formerly the rightmost route at the nursery, two routes have since been added. Head right from the trail split, up and over to the slab wall, and around the arete.

Protection

4 bolts + anchors

Photos

Dan Locks
IL
 
Dan Locks   IL
 
Stick clip the 2nd bolt to take the fear out of pulling the not-as-hard-as-it-looks first ledge. Or bring a couple crash pads. Who knew that an overhanging route could rate down to 10a... but there you go. Also, who knew it would be so fun? Oct 17, 2016
Russ Worley
Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Russ Worley   Atlanta, GA
  5.10a
Awesome...just a wonderful route. Bag the first two bolts and you're home free. Nov 7, 2016
Wyatt lee
  5.9+
Wyatt lee  
  5.9+
The chains are rusty and need to be replaced. Lowered off of southern satisfaction. Jul 29, 2018
sgt.sausage
  5.10a
sgt.sausage  
  5.10a
Those chains are, in fact, rusty ... but is is a surface rust/patina. Normal outdoor wear and tear.
Would fall on all day long. Some of us did. Sep 22, 2018

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