Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Joe Desimone, summer 1987
Page Views: 122 total · 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 26, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A surprisingly pleasurable climb that runs just right of the easy crack climb in the left corner.
It is helpful to be tall to clip the first bolt without getting too far in to the "I don't want to hit the ground zone" (but the bolt could be clipped by using the crack to the left). Another committing series of moves gains the second bolt where the climbing eases a bit while you climb up to the small horizontal crack, place a micro cam or two, and puzzle through the last couple of tricky moves to the top.
Classic south buttress style climbing, low angle, on your feet, but not strict friction.

Location

Look for 2 shiny bolts just right of Here Come The Jugs.

Protection

2 bolts, a few micro cams. No anchor :/
I anchored to a bunch of shrubs 40ft back from the cliff.

Photos

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Joe Desimone
Ward, Colorado
Joe Desimone   Ward, Colorado
For the record I cleaned, bolted, and did the FA of this route in the summer of 1987. My belay slaves were Kris Hansen and Mark Barnard when installing the hardware. I came upon this face while exploring the upper more obscure routes of Whitehorse and thought it might make a fun little route to compliment Here Come The Jugs. Glad to see that it made the Mountain Project route list and others found it a pleasant climb. I figured it would be lost to obscurity because it was located in a less frequented part of the crag. This was my last route project in New England before moving to Colorado later that fall.
Happy Climbing, Joe Desimone Fall 2016 Sep 18, 2016
I remember climbing this route, but definitely didn't do the first ascent. I do recall it being a challenging route for it's grade. Worthwhile and satisfying climb. Without an attentive belay there's ground fall potential .

Cheers, Uwe Schneider Nov 30, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10c PG13
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10c PG13
I have updated the FA info. I go by the guidebooks an I am sure it is a challenge trying to keep the info straight. Thanks for the history lesson guys! Dec 3, 2018