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Routes in 1. The Cosmic Crag

Baby Face T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Cosmic Amazement T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gravitational Mass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Here Come the Jugs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Siderial Motion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider and others 1991
Page Views: 77 total, 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 26, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A surprisingly pleasurable climb that runs just right of the easy crack climb in the left corner.
It is helpful to be tall to clip the first bolt without getting too far in to the "I don't want to hit the ground zone" (but the bolt could be clipped by using the crack to the left). Another committing series of moves gains the second bolt where the climbing eases a bit while you climb up to the small horizontal crack, place a micro cam or two, and puzzle through the last couple of tricky moves to the top.
Classic south buttress style climbing, low angle, on your feet, but not strict friction.

Location

Look for 2 shiny bolts just right of Here Come The Jugs.

Protection

2 bolts, a few micro cams. No anchor :/
I anchored to a bunch of shrubs 40ft back from the cliff.

Photos

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Joe Desimone
Ward, Colorado
Joe Desimone   Ward, Colorado
For the record I cleaned, bolted, and did the FA of this route in the summer of 1987. My belay slaves were Kris Hansen and Mark Barnard when installing the hardware. I came upon this face while exploring the upper more obscure routes of Whitehorse and thought it might make a fun little route to compliment Here Come The Jugs. Glad to see that it made the Mountain Project route list and others found it a pleasant climb. I figured it would be lost to obscurity because it was located in a less frequented part of the crag. This was my last route project in New England before moving to Colorado later that fall.
Happy Climbing, Joe Desimone Fall 2016 Sep 18, 2016