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Routes in The Nursery

Art of Turd Polishing, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Baby Steps S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Beaver Patrol T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
End of State Maintenance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fuzzy Muffin S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hazy Dazy S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hot Wet Noodles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Kate's Way S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kentucky Two Step S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lesser of Two Evils, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master of Puppets S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nursery Route 1 (closed) S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Pixadoodle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Solomon Grundy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Southern Satisfaction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stick in the Eye S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Patrick Miller, Bob Bartlett
Page Views: 279 total · 7/month
Shared By: EthanC on May 26, 2015
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Starts in a chimney towards the right side of the wall. Climb the chimney on gear (or clip the bolts out left) until you reach a large ledge and a first belay. Climb the crack to the right heading up and left from the belay to the top. Be prepared to bushwhack through some weeds and vines and be aware of friable rock until this route sees more traffic.


On the right side of the wall if you head left after the trail splits.


Standard red rack.


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Mike Wilkinson
Lexington, KY
Mike Wilkinson   Lexington, KY
Climbed this today.

First pitch is easy climbing with bolts nearby in case you don't like your placements. On the ledge above are a couple of glue-ins with plenty of space to setup your belay.

The second pitch definitely has a few sections where I felt sizable chunks of rock could come off under full body weight. You can see some of the fracturing and sections will certainly move under pressure. There was a small runout to my first good piece as I very gingerly moved past this sketchy rock. It was still easy climbing, just runout on questionable rock. Further up placements got better, as did the climbing. Two .5s were helpful, could have used 3 of them even. Near the top, it was pretty dirty so protected the bulge with a coupel fo nuts and a cam to get up to a small tree on a very dirty ledge, just before the top of the cliff. Rope drag was getting rough so I belayed my second up from there. No anchors/chains in sight. We rapped to the ground from that tree, a 60-meter was just enough. There could have been a walk off up and right (based on what we saw of the cliff form the ground) but we didn't go up to look. Oct 2, 2016

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