PRINT: Rock Climb The Recovery, Northern Arizona

The Recovery

5.12c, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3 from 27 votes
FA: J.Boyd
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Flagstaff Area > San Francisco P… > Peaks Crag > Peaks Crag > N End

Access Issue: Seasonal Nesting Closure Details

Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Forest Service and Northern AZ Climbers Coalition avoid certain routes during critical nesting periods which typically start April 1st and last through early August. All routes south of Shaman School (Climber's left) will be closed to climbing. Please refer to USFS signage at the crag for the most current closure information. Successful partnership with the Forest Service biologists has allowed for closure of select routes, instead of full areas, and we ask that climbers respect this privilege by adhering to these closures. If you have questions, concerns, or would like to report a bird sighting, please reach out to the Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition at nazcc@nazcc.org

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

Description

A powerful and sustained line that climbs through a series of relentless small holds. Tricky beta and footwork to show stopper tech at the top.

Cleaned up over the seasons and makes for a great tendon trainer.

Named after Jason's recovery from elbow surgery- a "welcome back to cranking" accomplishment.

Location

Starts on a boulder floating in the middle of some foliage. Head up a short slab with thin holds and into a steep section. Make moves that eventually lead you up into the thin headwall of The Recovery. Avoid traversing left and into the crack system of 'California Crack' to the left of the route. Possible to hang draws from 'Prosthesis'.

Protection

Bolts
Runners can be helpful below roof

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erik locking in on The Recovery. Not a great shot but it shows the line well enough, and a different angle of this wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Colin Cox

5.12b

Being able to toprope this line from the shared anchor with Prosthesis makes figuring out the beta easier. You can also them warm up on Prosthesis, hang the draws on The Recovery on the way down, and then send with minimal efforts. May 28, 2015

Chris Kalman

5.12c/d

I felt this was a solid letter grade harder than The Joker (soft 5.12c), and a slight touch easier than Black Solitaire (soft 5.13a). That would make it soft 5.12d. I think 12 c/d is prob pretty fair. If you skip the almost no-hands rest 1/3 of the way up the route on the left, I think it would be fair to call it 5.13a. FWIW, I think this is the first route in AZ that I suggested an upgrade from the MP consensus.

Also, it's really a pretty good route. Seems to have either drilled or aggressively comfortized pockets. But aside from that, the movement is great. Jul 3, 2019

AMT

5.12

I'd stayed away from this route for years because it's got a reputation for being tweaky. I finally tried it and think it's amazing and not tweaky. Really fun technical high-stepping movement on small positive holds with an improbable fun slabby tech finish. I agree with Colin's run-down of the route and hope no one else makes my mistake avoiding this one. Super fun! As far as the grade, it felt like mid 5.12 to me using the rest. Sep 30, 2020

Gabriel Kerbs
Lander, Yeehaw!

12c w/o “the rest” IMO (not really pumped at that point).

Tendon-trainer for sure! Sep 8, 2022