Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||J. Forrester, J. Aslaksen and J. Irby|
|Page Views:||1,613 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Forrester on May 26, 2015|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
- depends on ability to throw ice axe (A3-A4)
P1- Mud horn lasso leads to thin finger size crack through bulges. One bolt, followed by thin beaking leads to double bolt anchor on ridgeline(A2). Start almost exactly on the southernmost portion of the ridge.
P2-Follow intermixed bolts and beaks to large offwidth. End at double bolt belay at looking glass on the ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.8, A2) P2-4 follow original ascent line on Hydra
P3-Go up and right from belay to gain walkway along ridgeline. Follow rivets, beaks, and free climbing to double bolt belay on ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.7, A1)
P4-Head straight up from belay on beaks. Perform ice axe toss/lasso. Jug up off ice axe places intermittent beaks for back-up. Arrive at top of hydra fin. Slung horn and bolt for belay. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. This pitch separates the men from the boys. (A3-A4 depending on ice axe skills)
P5-Charon's Ride. Mixed free and aid across wild, convoluted ridgeline of hydra. Jumps between hoodos necessary. End pitch by rapping down to lowest notch on ridgeline, where there is a double bolt belay. 2.5 ropes can be fixed from here to the ground. (5.8, A1)
P6-Continue along ridgeline, using intermittent beaks and bolts. End at prominent hump on ridgeline and double bolt belay. (A2)
P7-Traverse along right side of ridgeline using bolts, beaks and free climbing to double bolt belay. ~50ft. (5.7, A1)
P8-Continue up ridgeline using beaks, bolts and free climbing to another double bolt belay. (5.7, A1)
P9-Traverse straight right across ridge using rivets and bolts. Continue upwards in trough with solid beaking. Ultimately trend right using a mix of cams, and free and aid to arrive at a Hades Chair, a large 6x12 ledge on the ridgeline. Ropes can be fixed here to the ground using stations. (5.7, A2)
P10-Crossing the Acheron. Continue up ridgeline using mostly bolts and occasional beaks. Enter the gaping maw at the caprock, and free climb out the caprock roof using large cams. Belay on double bolt anchor on nice ledge. (5.8, A1)
P11- Mix free/aid up caprock to double bolt belay on top of pillar, at large ledge. (5.8, A1)
P12-Elysium. Follow chimney to the right of the large ledge up to the caprock and double bolt belay. Scramble 15ft of third class to the broad summit. You have just finished the longest route on Cutler (5.8, C1)
Descent: Lines can be fixed from the top of P4, P5, P10. Rap from summit down P10 using stations in the mud flute on the east side of the formation.