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Routes in The Netherworld

Durin's Bane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2+
Hell Hound T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Hydraform Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade VI
FA: J. Forrester, J. Aslaksen and J. Irby
Page Views: 1,146 total · 33/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on May 26, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Hydraform Ridge (VI 5.8 A3*) 1200 ft

  • depends on ability to throw ice axe (A3-A4)

P1- Mud horn lasso leads to thin finger size crack through bulges. One bolt, followed by thin beaking leads to double bolt anchor on ridgeline(A2). Start almost exactly on the southernmost portion of the ridge.

P2-Follow intermixed bolts and beaks to large offwidth. End at double bolt belay at “looking glass” on the ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.8, A2) P2-4 follow original ascent line on Hydra

P3-Go up and right from belay to gain walkway along ridgeline. Follow rivets, beaks, and free climbing to double bolt belay on ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.7, A1)

P4-Head straight up from belay on beaks. Perform ice axe toss/lasso. Jug up off ice axe places intermittent beaks for back-up. Arrive at top of hydra fin. Slung horn and bolt for belay. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. This pitch separates the men from the boys. (A3-A4 depending on ice axe skills)

P5-“Charon’'s Ride”. Mixed free and aid across wild, convoluted ridgeline of hydra. Jumps between hoodos necessary. End pitch by rapping down to lowest notch on ridgeline, where there is a double bolt belay. 2.5 ropes can be fixed from here to the ground. (5.8, A1)

P6-Continue along ridgeline, using intermittent beaks and bolts. End at prominent hump on ridgeline and double bolt belay. (A2)

P7-Traverse along right side of ridgeline using bolts, beaks and free climbing to double bolt belay. ~50ft. (5.7, A1)

P8-Continue up ridgeline using beaks, bolts and free climbing to another double bolt belay. (5.7, A1)

P9-Traverse straight right across ridge using rivets and bolts. Continue upwards in trough with solid beaking. Ultimately trend right using a mix of cams, and free and aid to arrive at a “Hades Chair”, a large 6x12 ledge on the ridgeline. Ropes can be fixed here to the ground using stations. (5.7, A2)

P10-“Crossing the Acheron”. Continue up ridgeline using mostly bolts and occasional beaks. Enter the gaping maw at the caprock, and free climb out the caprock roof using large cams. Belay on double bolt anchor on nice ledge. (5.8, A1)

P11- Mix free/aid up caprock to double bolt belay on top of pillar, at large ledge. (5.8, A1)

P12-“Elysium.” Follow chimney to the right of the large ledge up to the caprock and double bolt belay. Scramble 15ft of third class to the broad summit. You have just finished the longest route on Cutler (5.8, C1)

Descent: Lines can be fixed from the top of P4, P5, P10. Rap from summit down P10 using stations in the mud flute on the east side of the formation.


Approach: Hike along Netherworld Amphitheatre until you arrive at the base of the Hydra ridge. Hike 200 yards along the east side of the Hydra ridge to a rope ladder which puts you at the base of the shelf below the hydra. Route starts just right of the Hydra ridge skyline.


Rack: Double rack of cams to #6. 7 each beaks. 1 specter. Rivet and bolt hangers for both lead bolts and bolts on fixing stations. Ice axe for P4. Cord for lassoing.


Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
I placed this route here in the Netherworld section as the approach and location make it rather distinct from the Mystery Towers proper. May 26, 2015
Wow, very cool...strong work. So this is completely separate from the Hydra? What an amazing guys are cleaning up:), again heavy duty Kudos your way!....would you care to share how much time for the FA? And when did you do it? In between lots of weather...tell us more! We want to hear a good Fisher story!! May 26, 2015
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Thanks James. The route shares three of the original pitches of the Hydra route; the first pitch is new, as are the last 8. The Hydra ended at the top of the start of the fin. It was quite an epic..... May 27, 2015
For the hoardes of Ancient Art climbing Fisher Tower spraying clueless wannabees, (which prob gets more than 90% of Fisher/Mystery tower traffic) this climb is the real deal. The Hydra was long on my list but the ice axe antics always creeped me out. Seth Shaw and I once repeated a Smoot route in LCC where one has to do a rope toss, sling a knob and then jug up and start climbing...I made the toss, but strong Seth silently and very seriously creeped up the rope....A climb like what you managed here in the footprints of the likes of Jim Beyer and Duane Raleigh is a proud accomplishment. Where else can you find a 4-10 pitch true Grade VI or even VII!!! Only in the Fishers:)!
Congratulations May 27, 2015

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