Type: Trad, Aid, 1200 ft, 12 pitches, Grade VI
FA: J. Forrester, J. Aslaksen and J. Irby
Page Views: 1,613 total · 28/month
Shared By: Joe Forrester on May 26, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Hydraform Ridge (VI 5.8 A3*) 1200 ft

  • depends on ability to throw ice axe (A3-A4)


P1- Mud horn lasso leads to thin finger size crack through bulges. One bolt, followed by thin beaking leads to double bolt anchor on ridgeline(A2). Start almost exactly on the southernmost portion of the ridge.

P2-Follow intermixed bolts and beaks to large offwidth. End at double bolt belay at “looking glass” on the ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.8, A2) P2-4 follow original ascent line on Hydra

P3-Go up and right from belay to gain walkway along ridgeline. Follow rivets, beaks, and free climbing to double bolt belay on ridgeline. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. (5.7, A1)

P4-Head straight up from belay on beaks. Perform ice axe toss/lasso. Jug up off ice axe places intermittent beaks for back-up. Arrive at top of hydra fin. Slung horn and bolt for belay. This pitch follows the original line on the Hydra. This pitch separates the men from the boys. (A3-A4 depending on ice axe skills)

P5-“Charon’'s Ride”. Mixed free and aid across wild, convoluted ridgeline of hydra. Jumps between hoodos necessary. End pitch by rapping down to lowest notch on ridgeline, where there is a double bolt belay. 2.5 ropes can be fixed from here to the ground. (5.8, A1)

P6-Continue along ridgeline, using intermittent beaks and bolts. End at prominent hump on ridgeline and double bolt belay. (A2)

P7-Traverse along right side of ridgeline using bolts, beaks and free climbing to double bolt belay. ~50ft. (5.7, A1)

P8-Continue up ridgeline using beaks, bolts and free climbing to another double bolt belay. (5.7, A1)

P9-Traverse straight right across ridge using rivets and bolts. Continue upwards in trough with solid beaking. Ultimately trend right using a mix of cams, and free and aid to arrive at a “Hades Chair”, a large 6x12 ledge on the ridgeline. Ropes can be fixed here to the ground using stations. (5.7, A2)

P10-“Crossing the Acheron”. Continue up ridgeline using mostly bolts and occasional beaks. Enter the gaping maw at the caprock, and free climb out the caprock roof using large cams. Belay on double bolt anchor on nice ledge. (5.8, A1)

P11- Mix free/aid up caprock to double bolt belay on top of pillar, at large ledge. (5.8, A1)

P12-“Elysium.” Follow chimney to the right of the large ledge up to the caprock and double bolt belay. Scramble 15ft of third class to the broad summit. You have just finished the longest route on Cutler (5.8, C1)

Descent: Lines can be fixed from the top of P4, P5, P10. Rap from summit down P10 using stations in the mud flute on the east side of the formation.

Location

Approach: Hike along Netherworld Amphitheatre until you arrive at the base of the Hydra ridge. Hike 200 yards along the east side of the Hydra ridge to a rope ladder which puts you at the base of the shelf below the hydra. Route starts just right of the Hydra ridge skyline.

Protection

Rack: Double rack of cams to #6. 7 each beaks. 1 specter. Rivet and bolt hangers for both lead bolts and bolts on fixing stations. Ice axe for P4. Cord for lassoing.

Photos