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Routes in Femme Fatale Area

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 380 total, 12/month
Shared By: SethC Cornell on May 25, 2015
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

Location

Located on the northeastern face of the Brigid O' Shaunessy Boulder.

Protection

Pads and a fresh pair of underwear

Description

start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

Location

Located on the northeastern face of the Brigid O' Shaunessy Boulder.

Protection

Pads and a fresh pair of underwear

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I never thought it was bold either. You can literally step off the problem at any time. I like the start, even though it's kind of a butt-dragger, since the crux is not dabbing on the boulders below you.

Oh, and the true test for boldness is using pine cones as mountain-money. May 28, 2015
Thanks for the compliment Seth, always good to hear from my admirers. Promise I won't forget that Christmas card this year. But it seems like if you were going to wipe your ass with the pages of my book, a wiser decision would have been to start tearing them out at the back, beginning with the picture of me, and carry on through The Swimming Hole section which is, without question, even less useful than the rest of it. But I dunno, maybe the flies in the Pine Mountain shitter had you frazzled, it's happened to the best of us.

As far as FA. It was me. Or Steve. I honestly don't remember, but it was one of us. My note in margin of the old B&W guide says "traverse starting on Kathy finishing on Gilda. Maybe V5-6?" In the Falcon guide Steve put it at V6. In O11 I put it down as V5. I never really thought it was good, fun or bold, but you know, to each his own. May 27, 2015
I have the Ocean's 11 book, but had to sacrifice a few pages when I was stuck at Pine Mountain last season with no mountain money, decisions were made. I should probably get a new copy. May 27, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I don't know who made the FA of the traverse. Probably some kid just goofing off. The true start——beginning from Kathy Moffat——might have been a Steve Edwards et al creation.

By the way, these problems are all listed in Ocean's Eleven, which is, last I checked, still the Definitive Tome for SB bouldering. I encourage you to go purchase a copy. It might be out of print soon, but I'm pretty sure REI and/or Mountain Air Sports carry copies. May 26, 2015
Thanks for the info Andy, I will change accordingly. I thought it was odd that a bold, fun line was skipped over when everything around it had been developed. Do you happen to know who made the FA? May 26, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Seth, this route has already been done (many times) and it's called Irene Jansen, and goes at V5 if you do it right. Proper beta: start low between the boulders as for Kathy Moffat, then do some funky moves to gain the rail, traverse, mantle. If you traverse R-L just from starting on the rail (that is, NOT starting all the way in the chasm from Kathy Moffat), then it's called Gilda, V1.

I'll let you change the title, but thanks for posting. It's nice to have this problem up on MP. May 25, 2015