Adventure Projects is hiring an Android engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Big Schloss

Are you read'y speed king? T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Make it hap'n cap'n T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
You have beautiful features T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: James Miller or Unknown
Page Views: 357 total · 9/month
Shared By: yositune on May 24, 2015
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The climb was cleaned and climbed on 5/24/15 on rappel then TR'd and lead. Fun climb with great views and a very Seneca'y feel.

Toprope anchors and a nice top-managed belay without horrendous swing can be setup on the inside of the ledge for the route coming up arete directly below the gap in the two ledges. The trees make for an easy TR anchor setup although there is also gear at the top. Some edge protection bringing ropes over the top but once over drop nicely to keep the swing managable for a top rope.

An interesting climb with a mix of gear on an obvious arete climbing up and through to a ledge. Decent belay ledge at the base. Loose blocks pulled on the arete but some sketchy blocks around to the left on the line under the nose of the climb. Avoid or clean and check the obvious noses on the left and right of the climb. Rock and rock quality will be familiar to any Seneca climber. Fun lead and fun climb! :)

Location

The climb was cleaned and climbed on 5/24/15 on rappel then TR'd and lead. Fun climb with great views and a very Seneca'y feel.

Coming up towards the footbridge at the top of Big Schloss, to the right there is a wall with a prominent nose towards the corner as it rolls to the east face with several obvious lines. Walking into the small grove and walking towards the lip notice several trees 25-30' to a diving board ledge. Toprope anchors and a nice top-managed belay without horrendous swing can be setup on the inside of the ledge for the route coming up arete directly below the gap in the two ledges. The trees make for an easy TR anchor setup although there is gear at the top. Some edge protection bringing ropes over the top but once over drop nicely to keep the swing managable for a top rope.

Rapping to the bottom from a top-rope anchor may be preferable to walking down from the boulders near the footbridge and along the loose (and sketchy?) and foliage deep base of the rocks. There was no poison ivy but there is some scrambling to get to the base from the footbridge side and the area seems full of loose dirt and rock and maybe 10' or so fall in some areas form the base of the climb. Top-managed is recommended.

Note the area shows no sign of active climbing and loose rock and flakes are at the top. The area along the arete and the climb facing the bridge with a tree at the base are the only routes that have been cleaned recently. Exercise caution on the large flake under the nose at the top of the climb on the footbridge side.

Note there was an timber rattle snake active on 5/24/15 above the diving board above and may be active in the area. Caution, snake crossing. The ledge below the anchors are dirty and seem to be have birds roosting.. The bomber C4 #4 placement is around there though.

Protection

Standard rack. One C4 #4 before top ledge. gear is better to the right with solid horizontal placements through the middle section but some nice smaller nut placements in the middle section on the more solid blocks. There is one hollow possibly loose block around to the left of the climb under the nose, but large loose blocks were cleaned on 5/25/15 and good protection is available on both sides. Several nice pockets for blue, pink and red tricks. Several placements could have used an offset cam but placements took standard C4s.

0 Comments

More About You have beautiful features

Printer-Friendly