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Routes in The Indian Buttress Formation

East Indian Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Indian Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indian Buttress Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Howard Hammerland, Hunter Hernandez, C. Norwood!!
Page Views: 632 total · 20/month
Shared By: Joshua Reinig on May 24, 2015
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is the striking obvious corner system, which runs up the entirety of the east buttress on The Indian Buttress Formation.
Pitch 1, starts out in a perfect left facing corner with a super clean hand crack for 80' to top of tower, belay in notch.
Pitch 2, follow splitter finger crack for 20' then trend left to large right facing corner follow this to the top.

-Alternate finish Variation B,
Instead of trending left after splitter finger crack on start of P2, continue straight up even larger thin right facing corner 5.10a R, pull roof and belay here for one more short 5.6 pitch to top!

-Alternate finish Variation C, (Most Recomended)
Instead of heading up thin R rated corner described in Var. B, jog right climbing an easy 5.6 finger crack from behind the bushy Pine tree for 25 feet, until it becomes possible to traverse easy broken 4th class ledge all the way right. This will bring you to the amazing splitter headwall double finger crack, up the very exposed arete making up the left side of The Eye of the Indian!! Climb this very intimidating and very expose, proud 5.10b crack, until it becomes possible to trend right above The Eye and belay at the last bolted anchor for the Indian Buttress route. Finish via last pitch of IB!

-Alternate finish Variation D,
Make the same fourth class traverse right as described in variation finish C, instead of charging up brilliant 5.10 double finger crack, continue traversing right for another 25 feet. It will then become possible to make a fun 5.6 step around move bringing you to a beautiful ledge looking up at the Eye of the Indian! (Belay Here)
From the beautiful bivi ledge climb wild splitter overlaps off the right side of ledge, trending up and left into the Eye of the Indian 5.10a!
Once you have arrived in The Eye climb excellent 5.7 right facing corner out right side of Eye and finish the same as variation C.


Start Left side of toe of East Buttress.


Standard Trad rack!!!


if you leave the rig at Nomads, crawl up to Humber Park, then continue to crawl up the approach trail, crawl up the talus fields, tie one arm behind your back, put roller skates on one foot, use no chalk, this is a GRADE V day!!! Aug 15, 2016
Def. more of a grade II+ !!! Aug 9, 2016
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Joshua what makes this a Grade III? Aug 8, 2016