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Routes in Location Unknown Routes

Access Climb T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Blank Face TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bowline T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Decapitator T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Difficult Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Overhang T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Off TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
First Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knob Off TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Next To Nothing 12.a TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Nosey T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Over and Up TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Papoose T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pretzel TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretzel Face TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Purgatorio V5 6C PG13
Quiver T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Return Engagement TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Riverview Ridge T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Second Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sentinel Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sentinel East Face T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sentinel North Face TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Third Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Cracks TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up and Off TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wrap-Around Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 321 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ted Pinson on May 24, 2015
Admins: Dave Hug

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Description

Nose/arĂȘte around the corner from Double Overhang. Follow the nose all the way up, but watch the spiders. Crux is about a quarter of the way up, where handholds get marginal so you have to just hug the arĂȘte and high-step it. The exposure and views are pretty amazing, and it's also a wonderful photo opportunity...

Location

Sentinel area. Obvious nose around the corner from double overhang. Start in the corridor access area.

Protection

Bolted anchors and lots of solid trees at the top for TR.

Photos

Looking at the guidebook you are clearly right and route starts on nose labeled a 6. I started ~6ft left of nose (towards Monkey Swing) at large overhang. Oh well, a fun variation on the start and adds 10+ feet. Jul 2, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
 
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
 
The guidebook listed it as 5.6, but that could be an old-school .6. It's definitely no harder than any .6 at Devil's Lake. There is a .10 on the face around the corner (inside cove). Maybe you started a bit off route? Jul 2, 2015
Climbed this yesterday, but started at the very bottom about halfway up the scramble into the cove. Beginning of route was a large overhang with fist jam crack, making it stiffer than a 5.6. Anybody know the grade of this?

Never see anybody on this route and it was full of dirt and vegetation. Why no traffic? Great views and the exposure made you feel you were not in Illinois. Jul 2, 2015