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Routes in D - Hidden Ledge

Chalk Bomb Antics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Doug the Subway Fugitive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ones Who Walk Away, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rancid Meat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Max Forbes, Luke Barns
Page Views: 1,289 total · 31/month
Shared By: Kris Fiore on May 23, 2015
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Some of the most exposed bolt clipping at Upper West. Dries very quickly as there are no trees to block the sun or wind.

Make easy moves up to a stance below the small roof. Link a few fun, powerful moves through the roof to a decent rail. From the rail the next two moves can be either 5.9 or 5.10d depending on which direction you decide and you'll know when you reach the hero jug which way you went. A tough mantle leads to a good stance that some people can manage to get no hands although I've never been able to find it. Go figure. Shake out here, it's your last chance before the anchors. Continue up the exposed face with increasing difficulty tackling two tough cruxes with tricky beta. A proud onsight for any aspiring 5.11 climber.

After giving it a second redpoint I think 10d is a bit of a sandbag. If you climb it please submit your opinion.

Destined to be a great route with some traffic.

Location

This route starts at two ring-anchors in the middle of the huge ledge.

To access...

1. Climb Beginner's Luck.

2. Climb Rented Mule and climb over the anchors.

3. Climb Fresh Meat and traverse left.

4. Climb Paradox and traverse left.

5. Traverse right from the base of Chockstone. This is loose, scary, and not at all recommended although I felt I had to add it for posterity as this is how we accessed the ledge for the first time. Luckily, my partner Max took the liberty of removing the two-ton flake that was previously in the way...you're welcome.

Protection

Bolted conservatively, (body length between some bolts) although the falls would be totally clean as the route gently overhangs and all the crux moves have short falls. You'll only go flying if you botch a clip and there's no cheating your way through this one. Enjoy!

Photos

Connor F-M
Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
Connor F-M   Lafayette, CO
  5.11a
The exposure is great, falls are clean, and it's a hard onsight. Jun 11, 2015
Varied climbing with 3 tricky sections: a small roof, a corner, and a crimpy face. On the three times I got on this route I broke off foot or hand holds, even stopping mid climb to remove some flakes. Helmet for the belayer definitely. Needs traffic. May 28, 2017

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