Mountain Project Logo

Routes in SnowBird Slab/Cornerstone

Born to be Mild S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gumby Drop S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mr. Bill T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nice Hole TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poor Life Choices T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Possum Kingdom T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Santa Cruz S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Second Sally T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snowflake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin As Ice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tinsel Moose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Unknown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: Amy Johnson, David Whitelaw
Page Views: 131 total, 4/month
Shared By: Chris McNeil on May 23, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun short route on far left side of the crag. Climb chicken heads to the top.

Location

Lookers left side of crag-first bolt line

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
It was a suggestion to the community (maybe you should do the same before marring the rock yourself). Sorry I do not put a 15m slab on pare with anything other than a recreational sport route. And thanks I have done plenty of developing/restoration work on local crag classics to know what standard ethics are... Hell I have even FA'd a 5.6R myself, without putting in any bolts! How about this? Does anyone know how to contact the FAs? I would be glad to chat with them, see what they think, and even if given a green light give a 1 year period for feedback from the community before suggesting (again) the bolt actually go in. Jul 21, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.6 R
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.6 R
I'd suggest becoming familiar with the ethics of retrobolting not just here in Alaska, but throughout the country its a no go without the explicit permission of the FA party ego or not. Replacing existing hardware is acceptable, so unless you're interested in whipping on rusty 1/4 button heads, don't complain about routes that have been upgraded. Bolts do not make a route a sport route. Go do the slabs at Zulu, not really sport routes. Keep in mind that ethics have changed, and currently it would be considered unethical to retrobolt a route that isn't yours. I've climbed this route, and so have many others, they are used on a regular basis. Keep in mind that if new bolt appear on these climbs, they will get chopped (by me, or someone else) , marring the rock even more. Jul 16, 2015
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Yes and that is good for the ego of the FA. My only point here is that the current lay out of bolts screens poor ethics. A bolt placed at essentially ground level gives the impression of a lack of ethics. Additionally, a run out on such an obscure short route (which is a sport route, sorry) makes the use of the bolts (that are not the originals) unlikely and hence the bolts are just liter. Jul 16, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.6 R
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.6 R
That's why this route and the other are given R ratings, they were much more R rated when the bolts were 1/4 inch button heads... Jun 11, 2015
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Not on this route no. The first bolt is 7ft off the ground--its is a scary sit start I'll give it that. Second Bolt is about 20ft. Jun 10, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Much appreciated! It's good to remember that even though a climb in hatcher is protected by bolts it is not necessarily a sport route. This is a good example as are the Zulu slabs. While there are bolts a bolder, yet more careful climbing approach is needed as falling would likely be a bad time. Nearly all the routes in the area were put up on lead at a time when bolts were a last resort and this has become part of the area's ethic. Also, I may be wrong but I think you can sling a chickenhead before the first bolt. Jun 10, 2015
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
 
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
 
Edited. Certainly not trying to disrespect the location ethics, simply an idea to make a 15m moderate sport climb a little more reasonable. Jun 10, 2015
It would be awesome if people respected that ethic in other areas with harder climbs too.... Yeah right! Jun 9, 2015
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
I second this. The suggestion of adding a bolt is concerning, especially when placed in the description. Please remove this from the description. It's hatcher, sack up and lead or leave it be. Jun 9, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.6 R
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.6 R
Again, please don't add bolts to existing climbs, while I agree this climb is heady, the ethics of Hatcher dictate that bolts should not be added to existing climbs without express permission of the FA. If new bolts are added, it will inevitably get chopped, permanently marring the stone. Jun 9, 2015