Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Forming Arch

Manta Ray T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: FA Jay Smith, FFA Jacob Warren
Page Views: 118 total, 4/month
Shared By: jakobi on May 19, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Jay Smith has an uncanny ability to find some of the best lines in the desert and this is one of my new favorite routes in the Moab area having both fun face climbing and one of the most enjoyable finger cracks anywhere. The climb starts with a short section of mellow climbing on features to a horizontal crack, clip a bolt above your head and do a short boulder problem to reach the beginning of the crack. It felt about v4 to me but it might feel a bit harder for shorter folks. Above the boulder problem the climb follows a tight finger crack with plenty of ledges and features to keep it relatively mellow. Climb into a flaring slot which is easier than it first appears due to plenty of holds (tread lightly to preserve these!) The slot ends at a small roof, pull through and exit onto the less-than-vertical wall which is split by an amazing crack which is mostly perfect fingers. The climbing above is kept reasonable by the grace of edges, pockets, pods, crack-constrictions and the zig-zagging nature of the crack; stances abound and there are no desperate gear placements, all of which makes for an engaging but very enjoyable climb.

Location

On the right side of the forming arch. The corner is Sting Ray 5.11+; to the right of this is Manta Ray.

Protection

I brought 2x .2 Camalots, 2 green Aliens, 4x .3, 7x .4, 1x .75 and 1x #1 Camalots. runners to extend gear in the slot and quickdraws for 2 bolts. Bomber anchor. It's possible to lower with one 70m if swing over to higher ground in the arch- tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Photos

0 Comments