Fried Chiggin Buttress
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Crystal Lake Wall
|Adam and Steve T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|An Inconvenient Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Ant Jemima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Approach Slabs T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Attack of the Clowns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Backyard Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Butterface T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13|
|Clown Syndrome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Dirtguy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Fried Chiggin Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Ghetto Heisman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Incomplete/Avoid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Project Adadictame T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Projekt 611 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Silent Game, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13|
|Swayze Express T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Dangerous Dave, the Turntable Slave (or Taco and Amanda)|
|Page Views:||181 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||TacoDelRio on May 17, 2015|
|Admins:||jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis one is pretty fun, no joke. You go up a face which provides easy and interesting climbing with the oddball proteciton opportunities typical of the range. You can belay up and right next to the nice ledge. This is a good idea for communication reasons. Traverse left from here across an easy if unprotected face for a car length, then up a crack. Use some long runners here so the ropedrag doesn't kill you.
From here, you have two options. Continue up and over loose ground. You'll weave your way left and up, making the ropedrag horrendous, until you can reach a bigass Oak tree. You know, a fixed belay station well before this point would be excellent. One can rapp from the webbing on this tree to a class 3-4 ledge at the base with a 60m.
The second (superior) option is to climb up the crack, and onto a ledge on the right, which forms the top of a short wall. Walk along this ledge and you'll find a rapp station (minimalist) at a tree. I've cleaned a lot of loose rock from here but be careful, as obviously there's a ton more. Rapp down to pitch 1 tree on Clown Syndrome, then rapp from that tree. Might make it to the deck with a 70m from the first tree.
There is still a lot of loose rock on the route, to include two very dangerous sharp flake-like things. Be careful.
Route is somewhere in the 5.0-5.7 range. Pick a number. I wanna say the start is 5.2c+, with the crux being "hella stanky leg". Unlock the dope swag crux moves by doing the Dougie. If it's raining or snowing, the rock might be wet. Add a w to the end of the rating to survive.