Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Crystal Lake Wall

Adam and Steve T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
An Inconvenient Roof T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Ant Jemima T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Approach Slabs T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Attack of the Clowns T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Backyard Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butterface T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Clown Syndrome T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Dirtguy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Fried Chiggin Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Ghetto Heisman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Incomplete/Avoid T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Project Adadictame T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Projekt 611 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silent Game, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Swayze Express T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dangerous Dave, the Turntable Slave (or Taco and Amanda)
Page Views: 181 total, 6/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on May 17, 2015
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This one is pretty fun, no joke. You go up a face which provides easy and interesting climbing with the oddball proteciton opportunities typical of the range. You can belay up and right next to the nice ledge. This is a good idea for communication reasons. Traverse left from here across an easy if unprotected face for a car length, then up a crack. Use some long runners here so the ropedrag doesn't kill you.

From here, you have two options. Continue up and over loose ground. You'll weave your way left and up, making the ropedrag horrendous, until you can reach a bigass Oak tree. You know, a fixed belay station well before this point would be excellent. One can rapp from the webbing on this tree to a class 3-4 ledge at the base with a 60m.

The second (superior) option is to climb up the crack, and onto a ledge on the right, which forms the top of a short wall. Walk along this ledge and you'll find a rapp station (minimalist) at a tree. I've cleaned a lot of loose rock from here but be careful, as obviously there's a ton more. Rapp down to pitch 1 tree on Clown Syndrome, then rapp from that tree. Might make it to the deck with a 70m from the first tree.

There is still a lot of loose rock on the route, to include two very dangerous sharp flake-like things. Be careful.

Route is somewhere in the 5.0-5.7 range. Pick a number. I wanna say the start is 5.2c+, with the crux being "hella stanky leg". Unlock the dope swag crux moves by doing the Dougie. If it's raining or snowing, the rock might be wet. Add a w to the end of the rating to survive.

Location

This route heads up the dihedral left of Clown Syndrome up easy ground, then left to gain the crack. But, you know, take whatever way you want. I just follow the most protectable ground, cause this shit can be loose.

Protection

I reckon a double rack to 2, with one 3 and one 4. I like offset nuts, a single set was fine. Bring 4 draws or whatever for the nuts. 60m rope.

Small, flexible cams under 1" are really useful. Bring a bunch if you have em.

0 Comments