Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Dangerous Dave, the Turntable Slave (or Taco and Amanda)
Page Views: 881 total · 8/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on May 17, 2015
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This one is pretty fun, no joke. You go up a face which provides easy and interesting climbing with the oddball proteciton opportunities typical of the range. You can belay up and right next to the nice ledge. This is a good idea for communication reasons. Traverse left from here across an easy if unprotected face for a car length, then up a crack. Use some long runners here so the ropedrag doesn't kill you.

From here, you have two options. Continue up and over loose ground. You'll weave your way left and up, making the ropedrag horrendous, until you can reach a bigass Oak tree. You know, a fixed belay station well before this point would be excellent. One can rapp from the webbing on this tree to a class 3-4 ledge at the base with a 60m.

The second (superior) option is to climb up the crack, and onto a ledge on the right, which forms the top of a short wall. Walk along this ledge and you'll find a rapp station (minimalist) at a tree. I've cleaned a lot of loose rock from here but be careful, as obviously there's a ton more. Rapp down to pitch 1 tree on Clown Syndrome, then rapp from that tree. Might make it to the deck with a 70m from the first tree.

There is still a lot of loose rock on the route, to include two very dangerous sharp flake-like things. Be careful.

Route is somewhere in the 5.0-5.7 range. Pick a number. I wanna say the start is 5.2c+, with the crux being "hella stanky leg". Unlock the dope swag crux moves by doing the Dougie. If it's raining or snowing, the rock might be wet. Add a w to the end of the rating to survive.

Location Suggest change

This route heads up the dihedral left of Clown Syndrome up easy ground, then left to gain the crack. But, you know, take whatever way you want. I just follow the most protectable ground, cause this shit can be loose.

Protection Suggest change

I reckon a double rack to 2, with one 3 and one 4. I like offset nuts, a single set was fine. Bring 4 draws or whatever for the nuts. 60m rope.

Small, flexible cams under 1" are really useful. Bring a bunch if you have em.

Photos

0 Comments