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Psycho Hose Beast

5.12a, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Wylder Wilson
Colorado > Naturita & Para… > Big Gypsum - Do… > Psycho Tower

Description

Psycho Hose Beast is short and bouldery. The crux is around bolt 5. Head right via the little crimps to the obvious slopey rail. One last big move from an unlikely sandstone pocket will bring you to the jug hall that remains.

Location

This is the obvious bolted line on the buttress looker's left of Psycho Tower. Look for the large plaque at the base of the route.

Protection

10 bolts plus anchors. The anchors should have fixed biners.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] It's 4 star in terms of aesthetics and movement, but the rock quality on the right side isn't so hot. It is still safe though as the bolts are plenty and solid on the left.

There is a hold that flexes near the crux (1 ft below what I believe the "unlikely sandstone pocket" referred to). If this breaks, I think it will be even harder. Oct 25, 2019
Skyeler Congdon
Western Slope
  5.12
[Hide Comment] I believe the aforementioned flexing hold is gone, as all I found at the crux was a shitty undercling that looked like it was once something. Felt nails hard to me, maybe 12cish? Above my pay grade, whatever it is! Pretty temp-dependent, since those sloping rail holds go into the sun very early in the day.

A worthwhile route of you're up here and climbing mid-12, but it's not the best rock quality, even if it looks good from the ground - breaking lots of little edges already popping off. Apr 27, 2020