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Valkyrie
5.14a,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
FA: Mark Anderson, July 2014
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Bunker
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31 Visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/news/2… Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit:
jeffco.us/open-space/alerts… The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season. Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
Another enduro jughaul, Valkyrie would fit in perfectly at Rifles Wicked Cave, right between
Zulu and
Slice of Life. This is a great choice for the aspiring 5.14 climber, with a relatively mellow crux followed by many pumpy, gymnastic moves that can be learned down. There is a bit of off-balance slab groveling at the start, but it gardually gives way to uber steep swinging and hooking between sloping jugs.
Begin from part-way out the upper-left fixed line. Follow a brief slab to a horizontal alcove and the first bolt. Climb awkwardly into the alcove, making sure to take advantage of the no-hands head-jam rest. Exit the alcove, heading up and right, to reach a perched mini-slab. Tiptoe along the slab to an active rest below the crux. The pegmatite band is surmounted with a shouldery reach between opposing gastons. Rock over the bulge to find a great restincluding more opportunities for head-jamming--below the inverted bowl. Pump up the cresting wave, hooking, and toe-camming wildly towards a hanging dihedral. Turn the capping ceiling, squirm into a stem, and work easily up to the anchor.
Location
This is the next line right of Charlie (the large right-fiacing dihedral), beginning a bit left of the Bottleneck, climbing up and slightly right to the apex of the cave. The two best belay options are the Dirt Ledge, or the flat-ish stance below the Bottleneck.
Protection
Many bolts to a 2-bolt chain anchor, currently all fixed.
Boulder, CO