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Reckless Abandon Direct
Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 3 from 1
FA: Doug Reed, Tim Fisher
> Moore's Wall
> N End
This is the direct start to Reckless Abandon, and it is independent climbing for the first 50'. Where the regular Reckless traverses in from the left, this starts directly underneath an arete below the upper crack of Reckless. Power up to some big holds, get some creative gear, and then do a couple of long, tricky cruxes. Get pro wherever you can. At about 30' there is a very good rest and from here it is about 5.9+ R up the scoop before merging with the regular Reckless.
50' to the climber's right of the shared start of the regular Reckless Abandon, Nutsweat, and Death Wish.
Originally there was a piton in the lower half but it fell out years ago. The gear that fits in its old location is better anyway. Now the entire route is protected with natural gear. Nuts, Cams to 2.5 inches, Tricams to #2.5. Double ropes are helpful.