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Reckless Abandon Direct

5.11+ R, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Doug Reed, Tim Fisher
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > N End

Description

This is the direct start to Reckless Abandon, and it is independent climbing for the first 50'. Where the regular Reckless traverses in from the left, this starts directly underneath an arete below the upper crack of Reckless. Power up to some big holds, get some creative gear, and then do a couple of long, tricky cruxes. Get pro wherever you can. At about 30' there is a very good rest and from here it is about 5.9+ R up the scoop before merging with the regular Reckless.

Location

50' to the climber's right of the shared start of the regular Reckless Abandon, Nutsweat, and Death Wish.

Protection

Originally there was a piton in the lower half but it fell out years ago. The gear that fits in its old location is better anyway. Now the entire route is protected with natural gear.
Nuts, Cams to 2.5 inches, Tricams to #2.5. Double ropes are helpful.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Houston Hanner in the business on Reckless Abandon Direct.
[Hide Photo] Houston Hanner in the business on Reckless Abandon Direct.
Houston Hanner about to merge onto the regular Reckless Abandon.
[Hide Photo] Houston Hanner about to merge onto the regular Reckless Abandon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] hey Neil I was with Doug on the FA I get credit #@#@#er Aug 31, 2018
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11+ R
[Hide Comment] Alright Mr. Fisher. Credit given. Sep 1, 2018