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Routes in The Royal Tower

Blade, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Mod. Snow
Boomerang Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chase, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Di's Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Mod. Snow
Got Lucky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jester, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Mod. Snow
Royal Flush T M4
Southeast Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spam and Legs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M5 A2
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Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 10 pitches
FA: Mike Woolridge & Rob Pease July 1996
Page Views: 106 total · 3/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on May 13, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Description

There are six main buttresses forming the east face of Royal Tower. The following route is the southernmost buttress on the east face of the Royal Tower and forms the eastern extremity of the south face.

Protection

Standard Alaska rack.

Photos

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Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
From the AAJ:

Di’s Surprise (10 pitches, 5.9 A2) is “the southern-most buttress on the east face of Royal Tower and forms the eastern extremity of the south face. It is characterized by two large black slab/walls. Start at the square-cut comer 20 meters south of the couloir. (Go) up the comer, then (the) slabs/wall above, tending left up the crack systems. Traverse right across the ledge to gain the crack systems almost in the couloir. Follow these (some aid) up past three major ledges to the easy snow slopes. Descent: rap the route.” The route was climbed on July 9. Apr 26, 2018

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