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J. Wellington Wimpy

5.10d, TR, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: David Carrier and Ben LaCour
Maryland > Harper's Ferry > Balcony Rock
Access Issue: Frequent Peregrine Falcon Closures about Feb-July on MD Heights,  Mandatory Sign in for Maryland Heights. WV and VA crags are Closed to climbing. Details

Description

The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up to the dihedral, using finger cracks and crimps. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to jugs just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way.

Location

Bottom is 20 feet right of Brutus. Top is 20 feet right of Crown of Thorns.

Protection

Toprope anchor on the big block to climber's right of the large ledge 10' below the top, using a very long static line. You can use this same anchor for all routes from Popeye's to Olive Oyl. Be sure your master point hangs over the lip to avoid abrasion and rope drag. Rappel down so you can redirect the rope around the appropriate blocks and notches. You may want to sling the pine tree to redirect the rope and avoid a nasty pendulum fall.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Starting up J.W. Wimpy
[Hide Photo] Starting up J.W. Wimpy
Ben LaCour just above the second roof.
[Hide Photo] Ben LaCour just above the second roof.
Start of J. Wellington Wimpy.
[Hide Photo] Start of J. Wellington Wimpy.