To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
J. Wellington Wimpy
TR, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
FA: David Carrier and Ben LaCour
> Harper's Ferry
> Balcony Rock
Access Issue: Frequent Peregrine Falcon Closures about Feb-July on MD Heights, Mandatory Sign in for Maryland Heights (not during Covid). Closed to climbing, VA crags, Jefferson rock, and all rocks along Shenandoah Street. Note: All parking is closed along Sandy Hook rd.
Peregrine Falcons closures are very often in place particularly around February to the end of July and will affect almost all sections of Maryland Heights and not likely the other surrounding cliffs. Please check Harper's Ferry Alerts prior to visiting. goto nps.gov/hafe/planyourvisit/… and you may need to expand the page to "View all alerts" Registration is required prior to climbing on Maryland Heights. To register for climbing on MD Heights visit the Lower Town Information Center (however not required during Covid) Cliffs that are closed to climbing and bouldering are Jefferson Rock, and the various quarry sites and small rock outcrops along Shenandoah Street. Virginia Rock Climbing is close which is basically the Virginia Cliff. All Parking is closed on Sandy Hook Rd by the County Department of Highways including the trail head for Maryland Heights.
The route starts about 20 feet right of Brutus and just left of a large stone block at the base of the cliff. Work your way up to the dihedral, using finger cracks and crimps. The crux is getting above the blank face and roof to jugs just above. Follow the dihedral to the top, pulling through a couple small roofs along the way.
Bottom is 20 feet right of Brutus. Top is 20 feet right of Crown of Thorns.
Toprope anchor on the big block to climber's right of the large ledge 10' below the top, using a very long static line. You can use this same anchor for all routes from Popeye's to Olive Oyl. Be sure your master point hangs over the lip to avoid abrasion and rope drag. Rappel down so you can redirect the rope around the appropriate blocks and notches. You may want to sling the pine tree to redirect the rope and avoid a nasty pendulum fall.