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Routes in Split Pinnacle

East Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Chuck Pratt and Krehe Ritter
Page Views: 452 total, 15/month
Shared By: Blitzo on May 12, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This fun climb Starts in a chimney on the east side of the spire.

Climb cracks into the chimney (5.8), chimney up to a belay at it's end.

Climb 5.7 crystals and a 5.8 corner for a pitch.

Move down and left (5.4)to a belay below a curving crack.

Follow this (5.8) to the little notch below the tip. Either climb a 5.10c lieback, or A1 crack to the summit.

Originally submitted by Blitzo, Oct 22, 2006. Converted to a route posthumously at Mike Dahlquist's suggestion, thanks.

Location

Refer to Eagle Creek approach description.

To descend, rappel to the notch and walk down the north side.

Protection

Yosemite trad rack.

Photos

Keith Neas
Yosemite, CA
Keith Neas   Yosemite, CA
Great advebture climb! Thought first pitch was fun, last 10c layback pitch was hard!! The rappel stations seemed sketch but werent too bad, lots of old webbing strung on blocks and trees. The approach was a bit of a grovel. The 5.8 after the traverse was pretty sweet too. Great summit! Mar 19, 2017
The recent passing of Paul Kunasz in Boulder reminded me of a 1965 joint effort we made on this route. It was highly regarded at the time, but few climbers had actually done the route. It was my first experience in a Yosemite "Bombay chimney," and I struggled a lot on the first pitch; so much so that it was the first and only climb that made me barf. Heat, lack of water, and my queasy stomach called for a retreat--which we did. The first pitch may not be very severe by today's Yosemite standards--5.8--but having very slippery rock shoes didn't help: Kletter Spiders. In a sticky rubber shoe, this would be an excellent adventure! The approach is a bit of a grunt, especially in hot weather. Sep 14, 2015